Fish

Canned tuna sparked with lemon and capers creates a superb sauce that complements many pasta shapes — penne, shells, or linguine, to name only a few. I prefer solid-pack tuna in olive oil for the best flavor and texture. I sometimes add a small handful of unpitted black olives — Kalamata or Gaeta — and a large, ripe tomato, seeded and diced, for a delicious variation. Italians would never serve cheese with fish, but you have my permission to break the rules!

Begin by offering crisp breadsticks with roasted red peppers, black olives and marinated artichoke hearts on a bed of arugula. Follow the stew with apple pie.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Put out a relish tray of sliced carrots, celery, gherkins and radishes, and serve sour cream mashed potatoes with the fish. Have lemon meringue tartlets afterward.

The fish steams directly atop the gently simmering vegetables in this flavorful and very easy dish. Serve with steamed rice tossed with lots of chopped fresh cilantro. Market tip: Choose Pacific or Alaskan halibut rather than Atlantic halibut. Or substitute another firm white fish, such as Alaskan cod, mahimahi, or striped bass.

Serve the salmon with steamed rice tossed with shelled edamame (fresh green soybeans). Market tip: Choose wild Alaskan salmon, which is abundant and well regulated. Farmed salmon is controversial; salmon farms pollute wild salmon habitats and spread disease to wild salmon stocks.

Place mother-of-pearl caviar spoons in the crème fraîche and caviar bowls for spooning the toppings onto the potatoes. What to drink: Three-Olive Martinis and brut rosé Champagne.

Union Square Cafe guests are constantly challenging us to serve salmon in new and different guises, and here's one of the most popular ones we've done to date. Salmon is rich and meaty enough to stand up to the assertive chili rub; the trick to this dish is to cook the salmon gently enough to prevent the spices from burning. At the restaurant, we use New Mexico chili powder, which we prize for its fruity, smoky aroma and mild heat level. Buy it if you see it.

What to drink: Offer a Pinot Grigio with these toasts.

Serve with: Couscous with lentils. Dessert: Purchased lemon cheesecake.

South of Goa, the coastline of Karnataka state is scalloped with palm, mango, and jackfruit trees. This recipe comes from the city of Mangalore, where it is usually made with bangade, a small fish resembling smelt. We used salmon for this curry. And, when we can find them, we toss in about 10 fresh curry leaves along with the onion, garlic, and gingerroot.

Accompany the fish with mashed potatoes, rice pilaf or buttered noodles.

While in Costa Rica, Boston chef Steve Johnson was inspired to make fish cakes from leftover red snapper and boiled yuca. The combination takes clever advantage of the vegetable's starchy character, which binds the cakes together while allowing the flavor of the snapper to come through cleanly. We prefer to use frozen yuca, which has a better consistency and is easier to prepare.

Make this the centerpiece of an hors d'oeuvre platter that includes crackers, breadsticks, cornichons, and olives.

Finnan Haddie Gratin Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 2 1/4 hr

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 40 min