White Wine

The olives used in this traditional recipe are fresh, black, uncured, ripe olives, but wrinkled, salt- cured black olives will do just as well. If you do have ripe black olives from an olive tree in your backyard, drop a handful in rapidly boiling water for about 20 minutes, then drain and use in the reicpe. This is often served with soft polenta.

Many dessert menus include a colorful sorbet plate-light and refreshing after a rich meal. Offer elegant cookies alongside. For the pink grapefruit sorbet recipe, we prefer Essencia, a dessert wine with the unique flavor of orange muscat grapes. It's made by Quady Vineyards in central California. If you cannot find it, use a Sauternes or a late-harvest Riesling.

Forget gefilte fish and try this instead: a version of a French classic called carpe à la juive. (It calls for salmon trout instead of carp.) The fish (opposite) is chilled overnight, so begin the recipe a day ahead. Pour a Riesling.

Ciabatta is a wonderfully chewy classic Italian bread that is being rediscovered by specialty bakers around the country. Look for a rather wide, flat, flour-dusted bread, whether shaped into rolls or loaves. The rolls we used were 4- to 5-inch rectangles, but one or two ciabatta loaves would work equally well. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This is also a great vegetarian entrée.

We've learned from experience that, because goose gives off so much fat in roasting, it's necessary to use a deep (at least 2 inches) roasting pan (do not use a non-stick pan). We also recommend using a metal bulb baster — the hot goose fat may melt a plastic one.

(POLLO ALLA MARENGO) On June 14, 1800, Napoléon Bonaparte defeated the Austrians at Marengo, a village in southeast Piedmont. The town has given its name to this chicken dish, which was cooked on the battlefield by Dunand, chef to Napoléon. It is still served throughout the area-as well as in France-and is often made with veal. Serve with lots of bread to soak up the juices; uncork a velvety red Barbaresco.

For a low-fat entrèe, be sure to remove all visible fat and membrane from the veal shanks. Tie them to retain a nice shape.

Serve this flavorful saffron-scented dish as either an appetizer or a main course.

A flavorful turkey prepared in an interesting way. It is soaked in brine, which helps tenderize the bird, and then rubbed with a citrus-thyme butter. The butter keeps the turkey moist and also enriches the pan drippings for the gravy. The stuffing borrows from the long tradition of corn breads in America. Be sure to make the Giblet Broth before you start roasting the turkey. Pour hard cider throughout dinner. Watch how to prepare and carve your bird with our streaming video demonstration.

This is a delicate onion soup, a nice change from the heartier types which are so well known.

(PESCE ALL' ACQUA PAZZA) The fanciful name of this dish derives from the "crazy" way the cooking water is transformed into a flavorful sauce.

Porcini and shiitake mushrooms are the delicious difference in this fondue. Other varieties would work well, too.

A simple but flavorful poultry main course.

Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 5 1/2 hr

Hold the mayo: This rustic side dish is dressed with a Provence-inspired blend of white wine, Dijon mustard and capers. Be sure the potatoes are still warm when you add them to the dressing; they’ll absorb it better, enhancing the flavor of the dish.

The ribs can be braised one day ahead and topped with the breadcrumb mixture shortly before serving. What to drink: Robust Pinot Noirs with firm acid (to cut the richness of this dish), such as French Burgundies from Volnay, and Oregon or California Pinots.