Cabbage

Coleslaw is probably the side dish most often associated with barbecue, and its simple flavors match so well with smoked meat. The most common varieties include vinegar-based, mayonnaise-based, and mustard-based. Big Bob Gibson realized the harmonious relationship between slaw and barbecue early on. When he opened his first restaurant, vinegar slaw and Golden Flake potato chips were his only side-dish offerings, and a sweet tangy scoop of his coleslaw graced every barbecue sandwich that left the kitchen. As he told his customers, “If ya don’t like slaw, scrape it off!” Very little has changed in more than eighty years at the restaurant, including Big Bob’s original coleslaw recipe.

Chow-chow is a pickled vegetable dish that is served cold as a side dish or condiment. Its name comes from the French word chou, meaning cabbage, and the ingredients almost always include cabbage; but asparagus, beans, carrots, cauliflower, and peas can be added, as well. Big Mama’s recipe has a Pennsylvania Dutch influence. It is sweeter than most Southern varieties, and it matches well with all types of barbecue and foods off the grill. Her favorite way to serve it was as a side dish—an alternative to slaw; but it makes a great topper for barbecue sandwiches, hamburgers, and hot dogs. For breakfast, chow-chow makes a flavorful addition to scrambled eggs and biscuits and gravy.

When barbecuing chicken outdoors, it is sometimes easy to focus on the main course and forget about the side dishes. Bell pepper bundles are an easy side dish that can be dropped on the cooker right along with the birds. Hobo packs—simple aluminum-foil pouches—are a great way to steam vegetables when cooking outdoors. Any vegetables will work with this type of cooking. This red bell pepper, green cabbage, and sweet onion combination not only packs a delicious flavor punch but makes a beautiful presentation. Serve the vegetables right out of the foil for a more rustic look or arrange them on a serving platter.

Coleslaw is a staple side dish in every barbecue restaurant in the South, and the flavors vary from region to region. You’ll find hot slaw, mustard slaw, creamy slaw, vinegar slaw, red slaw, white slaw, and even blue cheese slaw. Which is better usually depends on the flavors you grew up with or what entrée you are serving it with, and although the debates aren’t as heated as those focusing on politics or who has the best ’Q, the discussions are quite passionate. This marinated coleslaw recipe is one of the stable of slaws fixed in the test kitchen at Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q. Although it has never been on the menu, it is a favorite of Big Bob’s grandson Don McLemore, and it’s a natural pairing with chicken. The sweet vinaigrette dressing makes this dish adaptable to every barbecue region.

When it comes to side dishes, Big Bob felt keeping it simple was the way to go. Consequently you won’t find a long list of accompaniments to choose from on our menu, just potato salad, slaw, baked beans, and potato chips. His original vinegar-based coleslaw (see page 176), made from only four ingredients, was the only slaw that was ever used in the restaurant. In 2003, Martha Stewart wanted to feature some of our favorite Southern-style sides on her television show and requested both baked bean and slaw recipes. We happily sent her recipes for half the side dishes on our menu. The next day we learned the show preferred we give them a “customary” mustard-based slaw typical of the Memphis Barbecue Region. I’d never heard of such a slaw, but who can argue with Martha Stewart? Thus was Crisp Spicy Southern Mustard Coleslaw born. The recipe has since been served to raves at the James Beard Foundation in New York City and at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival.

These open-faced sandwiches are not very traditional, rather messy—and very satisfying.

A hearty soup inspired by Indonesian gado gado sauce, fragrant and spicy with ginger and cayenne, rich with peanut butter and sweet potatoes.

Try this versatile omelet with traditional ingredients such as bean sprouts or water chestnuts, or look in your vegetable crisper and use that lonely stalk of celery or leftover carrot half, a handful of mushrooms or snow peas, some broccoli florets, etc. Try for a variety of colors and use up to 2 cups of chopped vegetables.

Coleslaw mix (shredded cabbage and carrots), one of our favorite simple suppers convenience foods, is available in the produce section of most supermarkets.

Here’s a Moosewood version of one of our favorite meals in Korean restaurants—easy enough to make at home.

We surprised ourselves with how good this smoked coleslaw is. This is the vinegary kind of coleslaw, as opposed to one made with mayonnaise. We wanted some smoky flavor and didn’t want to smoke the sausage, so we targeted the slaw instead, and a star was born. Whether you’re adventurous in the kitchen or not, try this one. It’s not hard to do, even without a smoker. Just set a rack inside an aluminum pan, and place wood chips beneath the rack (or tea leaves—they will burn readily and add a nice dimension to the smoked flavor).

While there are twelve or thirteen sandwiches in this book that Tom calls “my absolute favorite,” this one truly is Sisha’s. We use the pork shoulder, a very flavorful cut that benefits from slow cooking—so slow, in fact, that we set the oven on the lowest setting and leave the pork cooking overnight, which breaks down the textures, develops the flavors, and renders a lot of the fat. For the amount of meat called for in this recipe, you can get the same great texture and flavor in about four hours. This recipe has its origin in pork barbecue, which is often served with coleslaw. The cabbage in our sandwich—a nod to that side of slaw—is seasoned with olive oil and red wine vinegar. It is assertive and acidic, balancing the richness of the pork, while the jalapeños add a nice kick. Peppers vary in intensity—sometimes two slices are more than plenty while sometimes eight won’t be enough—so be sure to taste-test yours before layering them on.

Hoisin is a sweet yet complex Chinese condiment that you can find in the Asian section of just about every supermarket these days. The hoisin-based barbecue sauce is especially delicious with rich salmon, but it would also be great on beef or turkey burgers. The pickled ginger and cabbage slaw, which contain quintessentially Asian ingredients such as garlic, rice wine vinegar, and toasted sesame oil, are an ideal way to add some fresh crunch to the burger.

I have to tip my hat to my wife for this one. She is a Texas girl through and through, and she loves her beef brisket with coleslaw and pickles. I do, too, but I don’t necessarily have the patience to wait for the brisket. This burger satisfies her craving for a taste of home and my need for speed, all in one, making it a classic in our house. This burger has even proved popular with the patrons of Bobby’s Burger Palace.

Just mention the Carolinas and I immediately think of pulled pork sandwiches, dripping with barbecue sauce and topped with creamy coleslaw. Take the pulled pork out of the equation, add the rest to a burger, and you’ve got the Carolina Burger. It’s all about finding a great home for those sweet, vinegary, and spicy flavors that go so well with coleslaw.

Today’s low-fat sausages make it easy to enjoy heart-healthy versions of some Eastern European dishes, such as this one.