Roast

Garlicky and savory-sweet, this roasted pork is a mainstay of Cantonese barbecue shops and dim sum houses.

Roasted chicken is such a staple for many people that I wanted to provide a zippy recipe that would avoid the all-too-frequent pitfall of bland, dry results. Here, I’ve replaced the common rosemary-thyme rub with ginger, orange zest, and cinnamon, which are also appetite stimulants. Rubbing the spices under the skin, filling the cavity with more aromatics and orange juice, and then roasting the whole shebang makes for one moist, tasty bird! Drizzle with Moroccan Pesto (page 186) or add a dollop of Apricot Pear Chutney (page 175).

To the uninitiated, winter squash can be a bamboozling vegetable. Sure, it tastes delicious, but being so hard and often so funny-looking, it’s a bit intimidating whole. The first time I got one home, I felt like I was working with a tree stump. How was I going to get to all of that delicious flesh in the middle? Machete? Chainsaw? Actually, a good sharp chef’s knife is all you need, and if you don’t want to go there, most supermarkets now sell precut squash. I don’t mind the work, because of the wonderful reward—a succulent, sweet, yum-alicious treasure that, when pureed and roasted, tastes like candy. Really! If you’ve ever worked with a pumpkin, taking on squash isn’t all that different. Only there’s no trick here, just treat. (Personally, I’m a fan of cutting squash in half lengthwise then prebaking it so I can easily scoop out the middle, but that’s just me.)

Thank heavens that sweet potatoes are no longer relegated just to Thanksgiving. For years bodybuilders, who follow strict eating regimens to repair their muscles after workouts, have feasted on sweet potatoes because of their outstanding nutritional content, ease of digestion, and pleasant flavor. Chock-full of beta-carotene, vitamin A, and other body boosters, sweet potatoes are also extremely anti-inflammatory, which may protect against cancer growth. As a cook, I like sweet potatoes because they make a wonderful creamy canvas for warming spices such as cinnamon and ginger. This soup is an especially great meal for people with a lingering metallic taste in their mouth due to chemotherapy. It’s delicious served with a dollop of Apricot Pear Chutney (page 175).

For many people, tomato soup is a familiar and beloved comfort food. In this version, the soup benefits from roasting the tomatoes in the oven to lessen their acidity and add sweetness. Just be aware that some tomatoes are juicier than others; if they’re very juicy, you may need to drain some of the juice into a bowl during the roasting process. Using the pan juices as the broth creates supercharged scrump-dilly-iciousness! Plus, the roasted tomatoes blend beautifully (and colorfully) with the carrots. This soup is equally delicious served hot, at room temperature, or chilled.

Cauliflower is a wonderful vegetable that’s full of excellent cancer-fighting enzymes, yet it’s sorely in need of a PR campaign. That’s because most people steam cauliflower, which makes the kitchen smell like a stink bomb detonated. Either that or, like my dad, they eat cauliflower raw and tasteless as crudités (in his case, dipped in Russian dressing). The secret is to roast cauliflower. Not only does this avoid the sulfur smell, it also produces an unbelievably sweet flavor.

For rarer meat, chop the potatoes, carrots, and cauliflower into smaller pieces, as they will cook more quickly that way and become tender before the meat is cooked through. Try this recipe with steak tenderloin or a turkey tenderloin if you don’t want lamb. Use boneless lamb fillets in this meal as bones just take up precious real estate in your pot. Trim the meat well of fat. Sun-dried tomatoes come either packed in oil or dry. Either is fine to use here.

Some dishes are all about the garnishes. Or maybe some families like to do it up. Either way, when we bake a potato, we don’t settle for a pat of butter. The fixin’s are the fun part! We’ve made up a whole list of optional baked potato toppings, but, for us, the Vidalia onions are nonnegotiable. These crunchy and sweet onions are a Southern favorite and, although they’re grown only in Georgia, they’re still available in many supermarkets nationwide. If you can’t get Vidalias, other sweet onions like Walla Wallas or Texas sweets taste just as good. These taters go great with all kind of mains. Two of our other favorites are All-Day Beef Chili (page 122) and Southern-Style Turkey, Tomato, and Monterey Jack Bake (page 48).

This sweet, kid-friendly recipe (one of Jack’s all-time favorites) is like a cross between candied yams and steak fries—and it’s healthier than both! It’s also terrific with Balsamic-Glazed London Broil (page 15) and The Ultimate Spice-Rubbed Rib Steak (page 81).

A prime rib roast is such a great way to feed a crowd—it’s always on my Christmas dinner table. Sure, it’s delicious and decadent, but what most people don’t know is that it’s easy as hell to cook on a smoker or grill. Note that there are two separate cuts that are considered “prime rib”: The first cut (ribs 1 through 3) is closer to the loin and thus more tender and less fatty. The second cut (ribs 4 through 7) is closer to the chuck end and is denser and fattier. Ask your butcher for the first cut—it’s worth it—and buy the very best quality beef, with the most marbling, that you can afford. The recipe I’m giving here is for a smaller roast, but the same technique (with a slight adjustment on the time—a good rule of thumb is to allow about 30 minutes per pound) can be applied to a prime rib of any size.

Something a south Georgia boy doesn’t eat much is lamb. But south Georgia boys who like to win barbecue contests have to figure out how to cook it. The first mutton contest I ever entered I won, cooking lamb chops just like this. I like to get the largest rack of chops I can find, so I can serve them at least an inch thick and give my guests something they can sink their teeth into.

Pork roast is such a crowd-pleaser, so next time you make one, why not try it on the smoker? It’s incredibly easy and it doesn’t take much time. It also doesn’t make your kitchen hot and crowded, either. It’s always better, to me, to get the meat cooking outside—it frees up a lot of space for preparing the rest of the meal.

When you cook a whole hog, one thing you should never do is throw out the skin. It’s the key ingredient for one of the tastiest by-products in the world. If you’re not cooking a whole hog, I’m not going to fool you by saying it’s easy to pick up some pig skin, but you might be able to get some from your local butcher or from someone who is cooking a whole hog, a ham, or a pork shoulder and is willing to part with it.

Celery roots are apt to be large, and with their tough skins, they look forbidding—not a good investment for the single cook, one would think. But when I discovered how roasting thick slices transformed their flavor into something wonderfully earthy and complex, it was a revelation. So now, during the winter months, I often bring home a big celery root. I’ll use about half of it for roasting, and the other half I’ll make into céléri rémoulade, that bistro standby of julienned raw celery root swathed in a mustardy mayonnaise.

When I spotted this appealing whole fish at Citarella, just about a pound, I thought that it would take well to roasting, and it did. I love to tackle a whole fish by myself because it is such pleasantly messy work. I made sure the fishmonger left the head on when it was gutted and scaled, because I wanted to relish the cheeks, as Irene Kuo’s husband taught me to do when we went out for a Chinese dinner to celebrate the publication of her book, The Key to Chinese Cooking. He carefully plucked out the cheeks with his chopsticks and offered them to me ceremoniously.

This is a nice dish for summer, when zucchini is abundant and the fingerlings are delicate