Oven Bake

This simple batter puffs up in the oven like a popover and envelops the sweet sausage nestled down in it like a snuggly down comforter. This is a family favorite on cold winter Sunday nights.

Junior Pepper lived down the road near my great-aunt Carrye, who was a widow. (Almost all the older ladies out that way are widows, it seems.) Junior Pep, as he is known to all, makes the rounds checking on his lady friends a couple of times a week and calling their relatives if anything seems amiss. He has always been a ladies’ man. Junior Pep raised cattle and when I think of pepper steak he always comes to mind.

The ubiquitous boneless, skinless chicken breast can be the quickest yet most boring, driest meal. Liven up this dinner staple with a bit of lemon zest, moisten it with butter, and crisp it with crumbs.

Vegetarian shepherd’s pie is a fulfilling dish for a meatless meal. The kidney beans give it some heft.

When I make true chiles rellenos I seem to get every pot and pan in the kitchen piled up in the sink. On occasion, I want the flavor but not the cleanup. I whip up this version in no time with just one baking dish to wash!

Peeking out from dried leaves, last-of-the-season tomatoes can be some of the most flavorful. Here they are wrapped in leaves of phyllo pastry and baked with just a bit of Dijon mustard.

My in-laws grew up in Indiana. My husband grew up in a meat-and-potatoes type of home. This changeable delectable potato dish can match up with anything. The potatoes inside are tender and flavored with the broth and the potatoes on top are nicely crisped and browned.

Jack-o’-lanterns are wonderful. When else does a vegetable get to have so much fun? Serve this roasted pumpkin with the lights down dim and tell the spooky story of Stingy Jack tricking the devil once you get home from trick-or-treating.

Egyptian walking onions do just that; they walk their way across a garden. These unusual plants produce clusters of onion sets at the top of their stalks. As the sets at the top mature and become too heavy for the stalks to hold them upright, they lean over to the ground and replant themselves, traveling across the yard. When the new sets are buried, a petite onion will form. Once these are established they will travel, producing onions along the way, for years. The onions harvested from walking onions are very similar to pearl onions and, like their cousins, are delicious creamed.

Rufus Hussy was perhaps the greatest slingshot shooter who ever lived. Known far and wide as the Beanshooter Man, Mr. Hussy was brought up using his slingshot skills to put dinner on the table for his eleven brothers and sisters. He could spot the perfect fork in a dogwood tree for making a beanshooter and numbered the ones he made; the last one was number 15,864. As Rufus could attest, rabbits are easy game for a practiced shooter. This year my father made a beanshooter for my son, Joe, out of a forked piece of dogwood and a tourniquet from the hospital where he works. It was wrapped up under the Christmas tree with a one-pound bag of dried beans. If Joe practices enough with those beans, he might bag a rabbit with a marble by next Christmas. I know what I’ll make.

This may barely qualify as a recipe. It’s not a time-saver, that’s for sure, because these take forever to assemble. That doesn’t stop my friend Neck-bone Red from dropping me a note to inquire if I am going to be bringing bacon crackers whenever she knows I’ll be at a party. I have found in my hours devoted to crafting these irresistible bowtie-shaped snacks that the way to make a bunch of them at a time is to place them on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. The rack keeps the crackers from getting soggy while they bake and are corseted by the bacon.

Agatha Christie said of her grandmother, “Although a completely cheerful person, she always expected the worst of anyone and everything. And with almost frightening accuracy [she was] usually proved right.” Her grandmother would say “I shouldn’t be surprised if so-and-so was going on,” Christie recalled. “And although with no grounds for these assertions, that was exactly what was going on.” Sounds just like my grandmother Elsie. Elsie fancied herself an adept armchair detective. She was thrilled when our neighbor was murdered. Wait—that might lend the wrong impression. She was saddened by the loss of life, certainly, but elated at the chance to do some sleuthing and speculating. She quickly deemed it a love triangle gone wrong, a day before the police figured it out. I can see her now, seated in her floral chintz wingback chair with feet propped on the hearth, reading a good mystery. I must say that on early dark winter evenings I find myself right there in her favorite wingback, set about my guilty pleasure of working my way through The New Annotated Sherlock Holmes, all 1,878 pages of it, with a plate of Elsie’s rarebit to sustain me.

Many a child home sick from school has been fed Rum Tum Tiddy—a soothing, warm concoction of tomato soup and melted cheese over toast. Where the dish got its funny name I don’t know. I do know that it can hardly be said without a smile or guffaw. Here those comforting flavors are set up as a pick-up snack great for parties of all ages.

I first learned this dish for my good friend Lake Bell, a vegetarian I really wanted to have over for dinner. When I don’t have vegetarians at the table, I serve this as a side dish, but even my meat-loving friends like it so much that sometimes they make it their whole dinner with a salad of romaine lettuce and Grey Moss Inn White French Dressing (page 160).

When I am in Dallas, I make sure to stop in at the Palomino, where the chef puts a unique spin on mac and cheese. He uses rigatoni and goat cheese. It’s so creamy and delicious, I finally asked the chef for the recipe so I can make it myself at home! Make sure to use regular, unflavored soft goat cheese.

This side dish is as easy to put together as it is tasty; my mom made it for us at least once a week. It packs lots of nutrition and flavor into a single dish, it is a very successful way to get kids to eat broccoli, and it is great to eat with so many things. Try it with Tilapia with Citrus-Garlic Sauce (page 74), Lemon Fried Chicken (page 80), or Meat Loaf (page 115). Any amount of butter works here. I tend to use a lot, but feel free to use less.

This is a really fun dish to make and serve. It’s great for parties or to bring to potlucks and it’s convenient. You can assemble it completely and then freeze it (let it stand at room temperature for 1 hour before baking as directed below). I like to make it in two round cake pans because it looks really pretty when you slice it. Use any saucy salsa that you like; don’t use pico de gallo, which is too chunky. Shredded Mexican cheese is a packaged combination of three to four cheeses, usually Cheddar, Monterey Jack, queso quesadilla, and asadero. It adds more complex flavor than a single cheese and melts really well. Of course, you can grate your own selection of cheeses, but I like the convenience of the preshredded and packaged version.

Sweet bell peppers are stuffed with a very tasty beef filling and topped with queso fresco and pico de gallo, forming the green, white, red pattern that I love so much! This is a tasty and quick-to-make weeknight meal, which is also pretty enough to serve to company.

I grew up fully immersed in the rich culinary culture and history of Mexico and Texas. It took many years for me to realize that there was literally a whole world of food and culture beyond what I knew so well. When it began to dawn on me, I set out to discover what a meal without tortillas, cheese, and Mexican rice would look like. I longed to begin my new education with the most “American” thing I could think of. And, I ask you, what is more American than meat loaf? This is the first recipe that opened my eyes to cooking meat in a completely different way. It’s the same meat loaf I make to this day.

A dear friend from London gave me this recipe and a bit of good English advice: The key to great shepherd’s pie is the ketchup. So taste the turkey mixture before adding it to the baking dish and add another spoonful or two of ketchup if desired. The chili powder gives good flavor but no heat, so don’t let it scare you.