Onion

Fermented black beans are an essential ingredient to this soup. I couldn't find exactly the kind of beans Kunkhen used, so I settled for a prepared black bean garlic sauce, which was perfect and gave the soup the same earthy taste that Kunkhen's had. I recommend that if you are using black beans you begin by adding 5 teaspoons, then taste the soup for seasoning. If it needs more flavor, add more black beans. The tablespoon of black bean garlic sauce was perfect to season this amount of soup.

Cover the potatoes in plenty of dressing. Save extra, as the potatoes absorb it quickly and may need a retoss.

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 4 hr

This satisfying accompaniment is named for the creator of the recipe.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Serve with: Grilled herbed potato slices and a salad of mixed baby greens and chopped beefsteak tomatoes, dressed with a red-wine vinaigrette. Dessert: Purchased plum tart with whipped crème fraîche.

You've never seen these on the menu at your local fast-food Mexican restaurant, and you probably never will. One of the joys of cooking is that leftovers can be used to create better meals than most people get when they eat out. These tacos are remarkably simple to make. Just put the various ingredients in their own serving containers on the table and let everyone serve themselves.

The agrodolce (tart-and-sweet) flavors of vinegar and raisins used in marinating the fish are typical of Jewish-Italian cooking.

Coffee beans soften the heat of the chile and bring out the other flavors in this paste-like marinade. You can also use the paste on chicken, as they do at Maroons, where this dish is served. Begin marinating the meat the day before.