Wrap

Tofu has a custard-like texture and is available in soft, firm and extra-firm varieties; firm is preferable here. Serve these hearty burritos topped with purchased salsa and some plain nonfat yogurt.

Market Tip: Avoid packaged ground lamb, which can be extremely fatty. Instead, buy shoulder meat or lamb stew meat, which has some fat, and ask the butcher to grind it.

Although several varieties of basil are used in Southeast Asia, the most common-called rau que in Vietnam and bai gaprow in Thailand-is generally referred to as Thai basil in Asian markets on this side of the Pacific. The leaves are slightly darker and narrower than the more familiar Italian basil and have purple stems and flowers. Rau que has a distinctively pungent anise flavor, but Italian basil is a perfectly acceptable substitute.

These fresh and pretty wraps fuse three different Asian influences: Chinese stir-fry, Japanese ingredients, and a Vietnamese dipping sauce.

These wraps make for an informal and delightfully messy summer supper. Complete the meal with a rice salad from the deli (adding diced bell peppers and a splash of rice vinegar, if desired) and ice cream sprinkled with minced crystallized ginger.

A vegetarian takeoff on the classic Chinese minced squab dish. Chopped raw vegetables, not fried noodles, add crunch.

At Vong in New York the lobster is rolled in paper-thin strips of daikon radish. Zucchini, which is much easier to find, is used here; its more flexible and easier to cut.

(Rouleaux de Poulet aux Kumquats, Sauce épicé) These spring rolls can also be made with duck instead of chicken.

The chicken is cooked with onions, lemon and dill, then spooned onto warm pita bread rounds and topped with a yogurt sauce. Then the sides of the bread are folded up and the sandwich is eaten like a taco.

Look for chipotle chilies in adobo sauce in the Latin American foods section of the market. Serve the wraps with purchased salsa and an avocado, grapefruit and red onion salad with oil and vinegar dressing. Complete the menu with chocolate wafer cookies and coffee ice cream.

Mix chopped cucumber and tomato into plain yogurt for spooning into the pita. Also offer couscous salad and marinated vegetables from the deli. Round out the meal with baklava and grapes.

You can substitute flour tortillas for lavash.

These rolls are baked instead of deep-fried, making them a healthful, satisfying alternative to traditional egg rolls.