Beverages

Michael McLaughlin, cookbook author, says, "Sweet potatoes are so versatile that it's a crime to fix them just one way every Thanksgiving. A long time ago, I decided to be flexible and creative with the sweet potatoes, and it has been a delicious ongoing investigation. This year, now that dried cranberries are a supermarket staple, I've zeroed in on this version. Not only is it a colorful addition to the holiday spread, but it also is cooked on top of the stove, freeing up some precious oven space."

The cider sauce adds an extra spark of ginger to this old-fashioned cake.

The following is chef Robert Freitag's variation of a recipe by Joyce Goldstein, chef-owner of Square One, in San Francisco, until it closed in 1996. The chef likes to use king salmon when making this dish.

Californian Harry Baker invented the chiffon cake in 1927, but he kept the recipe a tightly guarded secret for another 20 years. He finally relented and sold his formula to General Mills. The mystery ingredient? Vegetable oil, which gave the cake richness and a light, moist texture. We spike this one with all the flavors of a Margarita cocktail; the Strawberry Compote with Tequila and Lime is an elegant touch.

Porcini and shiitake mushrooms are the delicious difference in this fondue. Other varieties would work well, too.

A simple but flavorful poultry main course.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

In 1897, the Sears catalog offered its customers a treat called brownies. No one seems to remember whether they were bar cookies or a chocolate confection named after a popular cartoon character. No matter; by the 1900s the brownie as we now know it had arrived. The recipe for these dense, moist brownies is from Heather Ho, pastry chef at Boulevard in San Francisco.

The sophisticated chocolates are deceptively easy to make and are particularly nice with coffee (and Cognac) after a special meal.

Kraft introduced Velveeta in 1928, and its special cooking properties quickly caught on: When melted, it was as smooth as velvet (hence the name), and it would never curdle when heated. While many Americans today prefer regional or handmade cheeses, a lot of them still secretly indulge in a little Velveeta. After all, Grandma’s macaroni and cheese would never be the same without it. Velveeta makes this dip unbelievably creamy, too; scoop it up with tortilla chips, or try it in tacos.

At the beach in Malta, the locals eat fried rabbit, rather than burgers, with fries. I've adapted the recipe by using chicken and sweetening the gravy with a touch of honey.

The 1766 Tavern at Beekman Arms teams this delicious steak with grilled onion rings.

Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 5 1/2 hr

Serve with: Mesclun salad with an herb vinaigrette and sliced semolina bread. Dessert: Vanilla ice cream sprinkled with crushed amaretti cookies (Italian macaroons) and drizzled with Kahlúa.

There are two brisket cuts available in most supermarkets, and the labeling can often be confusing. If you prefer a more marbled piece of beef, look for the thicker end, known as the point half, which may be labeled the front, thick, second, or nose cut. The thinner, leaner end of the brisket is the flat half, sometimes called the first or thin cut. Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 4 1/2 hr