Steam

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

I once owned a summer cottage on Sawyer's Island in Maine. The little cove in front of the house, too small to be named on navigational charts, was called Clam Cove by the locals. I never did any clamming — fishing was my thing — but I have a vivid memory of the muddy flats at low tide, feeling the soft-shell clams under my feet and seeing their tiny sprays coming out of the mud as they burrowed down to get out of my way. Soft-shell clams have two oval shells, about two to three inches long, that gape along the edges. Their most prominent feature is a siphon, about a quarter of the length of the shell, which sticks out of the clam. Whole soft-shell clams are often referred to as "steamers," because that is the way they are most often prepared. When salty old-timers refer to "clams," soft-shells are what they mean. Shucked raw, soft-shell clams may be called "fryers" or "frying clams." Frying clams make a superb chowder, but they are very expensive because of the labor involved in shucking them. I prefer to steam whole soft-shell clams for chowder. That way, I save a few dollars and get a fantastic broth in the process. The flavor of steamer broth is sweeter and more subtle and round than the pungent broth quahogs (hard-shell clams) yield. The chowder made from steamers may have a little less strength up front, but it is equal to quahog chowder in deep lingering flavor. To celebrate the difference, I use salt pork instead of bacon in steamer chowder, I don't add garlic, and I use fewer herbs and seasoning, letting the luscious little clams provide most of the flavor. And they always rise to the occasion, producing one of the most delicious chowders imaginable.

(Steamed Green beans) Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This English-style steamed pudding is a bit lighter than the typical rendition — with no candied fruit — and it looks pretty surrounded with holly leaves.

Start making this dip one day before you plan to serve it, since the yogurt has to drain and thicken overnight. A piece of cheesecloth is needed for the first step of the recipe.

No salt is used in this traditional Asian recipe. Folding the rice from the top to the bottom of the pan after cooking helps distribute moisture evenly. Active time: 5 min Start to finish: 30 min

Sticky rice is the main event at the northern Thai table. Small bites of each dish are put on the diner's plate, then a walnut-size amount of rice is formed into a ball with your fingers and used to pick up a chunk of meat or vegetable. Individual handwoven baskets will keep the rice warm longer, but a large bowl also works fine.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

These custards are inspired by the Japanese egg custard chawan mushi, made with dashi broth (a stock of dried kelp and dried bonito flakes). We've used chicken broth for simplicity, but any broth or stock that you have on hand will work fine. Steaming the custards gives them a delicate texture, which is enhanced by the spare use of solid ingredients (the shrimp, scallion, and mushrooms).

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

"Even people who aren't enthusiastic about vegetables enjoy my steamed eggplant with what I call 'Sesame Sauce à la Reddy,'" writes Guvvala Reddy of Madison, Wisconsin. "I adapted this recipe from one of my favorite Indian dishes, and it proves that the right mix of spices can change otherwise bland vegetables into something really special." Also nice as a side dish for chicken or lamb.

Crusty bread, an arugula and endive salad with balsamic dressing, and lemon sorbet with chocolate-dipped biscotti turn this simple Italian dinner into a special one.