Saute

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 40 min When we think of fall fruits, persimmons are all too often forgotten — but they're wonderful. Here, they make a salsa-like chutney that's perfect for lamb chops.

Puréeing the corn with low-fat milk gives the soup a creamy texture. Serve it as a starter or as a light main course with a green salad and crusty bread.

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 40 min

Clams in an oil and garlic sauce are found all over Spain but are especially good in Andalusia, where tiny bean clams are used. Cockles, Manila clams, and small littlenecks work well, too. Serve plenty of crusty bread to soak up the sauce.

For best results, buy small clams for this quick and sophisticated recipe.

(Rouleaux de Poulet aux Kumquats, Sauce épicé) These spring rolls can also be made with duck instead of chicken.

Adapted from Dead Horse Ranch This unusual pâté is made with calves' testicles, also called calf fries. Despite the unique ingredient, bull butter has a milder flavor and more mousselike texture than traditional chicken liver pâté.

It may seem odd that we use frozen green peas, but, sadly, even the best fresh ones can taste starchy by the time they make it to the supermarket. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min

Serve with: Tomato salad with red onions and blue cheese.

Linguiça is a garlic-flavored Portuguese sausage available at most supermarkets. Serve with: Frisée salad drizzled with a red wine vinaigrette.

Squash blossoms are extremely perishable; it's best to use them the day you buy them.

One piece of gemelli consists of two strands of pasta-both about an inch long-twisted around each other to resemble a braid. These noodles are great for catching the juices in this garlicky entrée. If you can't find gemelli, use fusilli; it will work just as well.

This chicken is delicious over rice or pasta, which absorbs the tangy sauce. A salad and some crusty French bread would be fine accompaniments.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Offer a salad of snow peas and sliced radishes in a ginger vinaigrette. End with oranges and almond cookies. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Although we prefer the taste and texture of sheep's-milk ricotta, this recipe can be made using (whole-milk) cow's-milk ricotta, which should first be drained overnight in a cheesecloth-lined sieve set over a bowl. The grapevine leaves make for a beautiful presentation, but, because they haven't been softened in water, they should not be eaten.