Grilling

Travel the world's barbecue trail and you’ll find meat on a stick almost everywhere. South Africa's version goes by the Afrikaans name sosatie. Like all good Cape Malay meat dishes, fruit and curry are never far off—the former (usually apricots) interspersed with the meat on the skewers, the latter used to flavor the marinade and sauce. "Cape Malay," by the way, refers to the descendants of Indonesian and Malaysian slaves and indentured servants brought to Cape Town to work in farming. "There is perhaps no other single dish that can be regarded as more genuinely Afrikaans than sosaties," wrote South African poet and food writer C. Louis Leipoldt. Writing in the 1940s, Leipoldt was to Afrikaans food what James Beard was to our own. Like all great food writers, Leipoldt dispensed not only recipes but the wisdom gleaned from considering cooking a manifestation of culture. The following sosaties are based on Leipoldt's.

Colombia may be the best kept barbecue secret in South America. Sure, Argentina gets the attention for its cowboy-style asado. And Brazil has enjoyed spectacular success exporting its rodizio-style restaurants—the kind where the waiters parade spits of grilled meats through the dining room. But Colombia? I doubt that most North Americans could name a single Colombian grilled dish. Well, it's time to shine the spotlight on the only country in South America to have coasts on both the Atlantic and the Pacific, whose cool-weather ranching district produces well-marbled, full-flavored beef, whose grill masters make extensive use of marinades (unlike the simplicity prized by their Argentine counterparts), and whose mastery of the art of grilling on charcoal extends to some unique techniques. Here's a not-so simple flank steak redolent of cumin, green onions, and beer.

A roasted garlic and red pepper relish replaces the usual pickle in this Spanish take on hot dogs.

To read of my travels, you might get the impression that for most of the last three years, I've done nothing but prowl night markets and food stalls. True, a lot of great grilling takes place at these markets, but you can also find some pretty amazing barbecue at luxury resorts. One such place is Amandari, a hotel built right into a rice paddy near the artist town of Ubud, Bali. There, a team of chefs cooks glorious grilled dishes such as grilled shrimp with fiery lemongrass sambal, Balinese grilled chicken, and whole grilled fish with makrut lime leaves.

An all-new version of franks and beans: The dogs are topped with lentils and an innovative take on raita, India's ubiquitous yogurt-based condiment. If you’d like to use naan (tandoor-baked flatbread) instead of hot dog buns, look for it at Trader Joe's stores—in both the bakery and the frozen foods aisle—or at Indian markets.

Mojo is a Cuban sauce made from the juice of sour oranges (or, in this case, a mix of orange juice and lime juice). It's truly versatile—the sauce works as a marinade or salsa for beef, fish, pork, and poultry—so no wonder it tastes great with hot dogs, too.

These kid-size burgers have the cheese on the inside. Serve with your favorite burger accompaniments.

Musa Dagdeviren is the go-to guy if you want to know about Turkish barbecue. Spend a couple of hours with him in the open kitchen of one of his Çiya restaurants (in Istanbul), and you'll wonder if there's anything he doesn't know about Turkish cuisine, let alone grilling. He'll start with chicken thighs marinated in creamy Turkish yogurt, chile paste, and garlic—to be grilled on skewers over charcoal. Before you know it, he's grilling meatballs, quinces, shallots, even bread dough loaded with ground beef. Here’s one of the "simpler" dishes in Musa's repertoire—if simple means merely marinated, spice-crusted, and grilled—and the combination of creamy yogurt, pungent garlic, and smoky pepper flakes produces the sort of chicken that has made the Turks the Near East's undisputed grill masters for centuries.

If you want to study the art of meatless barbecue, India is the place to do it. This nation of more than a billion people has more vegetarians than there are people in the United States. Over the centuries, Indian grill masters have evolved a highly sophisticated style of vegetarian barbecue—dishes bursting with flavor (not to mention dairy and grain proteins). It's grilling so complex and satisfying, you'll never miss the meat. Tandoori aloo (potato) turns up at grill parlors throughout northern India. The best I've ever tasted came from the landmark restaurant Moti Mahal in Delhi; the potatoes were packed with cheese, slathered with spice paste, and crusted with sesame seeds.

Leeks and apples simmered in cider add a hint of sweetness—a nice contrast to the sharp melted cheddar. If you can find oblong pretzel rolls at your market, they'll make an ideal accompaniment to these English-style hot dogs.

Make the fruit salad, throw the fish on the grill, and you've got dinner.

Bold North African flavors stand up to even the heartiest of hot dogs. Pile the dogs high with spicy harissa-flavored caramelized onions; a bright, pleasantly bitter preserved-lemon relish; and just a bit of hummus.

See "Prep School" for photos showing how to wrap the fish.

Look for marinated feta in the refrigerated section of the supermarket where other specialty cheeses are sold.

The combination of sauerkraut, sausages, and mustard is well loved in Germany—and beyond. Here, dark beer enhances the sauerkraut, and the hot dogs are simmered in fruity Belgian lambic.

Ribs are among the constants on the world's barbecue trail, but just how they’re prepared reflects a strong regional and cultural bias. The vast ranch lands and forests of the New World, for example, led to American-style barbecue, with its large slabs of spareribs slow-roasted on a smoker for the better part of a day. Asians adopted a different strategy: cooking small cuts or single ribs on tiny grills engineered for fuel efficiency. The flavor would come not from wood smoke (Asians don't have wood to burn by the cord), but from the explosively flavored seasoning indigenous to the region, like lemongrass, ginger, and fish sauce. Case in point: These Cambodian-style ribs, from Sarun Pich, a chef at the Amansara resort in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

As this recipe proves, barbecue isn't just about the meat. Veggies taste even better when they're grilled. Add some crumbled Maytag blue cheese and a bright dressing for a meal that even a carnivore could love.

No bottled tomato sauce can equal a simple homemade one—especially when the robust flavor of the grill is added to the mix.

Unless you're shopping for "meatloaf mix," it's easy to overlook ground pork. Smoky pork burgers topped with melted Muenster and creamy avocado will broaden your horizons. Don't skip the sliced tomatillo—its crisp tartness really perks things up.

Grinding skirt steak at home—using either a meat grinder or a food processor—is the key to this intensely flavorful, juicy burger.