Dairy Free

Seafood boils are a mainstay of Southern cooking, the type of shellfish varying by region. Shrimp boils are most commonly associated with Low Country (South Carolina) cooking, while crawfish is a specialty of Louisiana. In most of these one-pot dishes, new potatoes and corncobs (and sometimes onion wedges and sausages) are first cooked in the pot, often on the grill, and the shellfish added at the end. Then everything is piled onto a platter and served with lemon wedges, melted butter, and hot sauce on the side. Despite the name of the preparation, shrimp shouldn’t actually be boiled (or even poached), since they will toughen if overcooked. And the point at which they turn from perfectly cooked to overcooked is very hard to detect when in boiling water. Here, the cooking water is spiked with a few simple aromatics, but you could use Old Bay Seasoning (follow the suggestions on the package for the amount) for classic peel-and-eat shrimp. Or replace the water with Court Bouillon (page 231). Serve chilled shrimp with cocktail sauce (recipe below) or as an ingredient in salads.

This is an example of a short braise, where the cooking liquid is not reduced to make a sauce. Many recipes call for broccoli rabe to be blanched and then sautéed to remove some of its bitterness, but if you prefer its natural taste, braising is a better option. It mellows the bitterness without adding an extra step, especially when cooked in chicken stock, which adds a touch of richness.

This traditional Chinese cooking technique relies on very high heat to quickly cook vegetables, which are small or cut into bite-size pieces and stirred constantly in a hot wok or skillet. They are usually combined with a classic Chinese flavor base such as the ginger, garlic, and scallion in this recipe, in the same way that French and Italian dishes begin with mirepoix or soffritto. Because of the rapid cooking time, the vegetables tend to stay very crisp and retain their vitamins and bright color. Preparing all ingredients before heating your wok or skillet is essential, as it will ensure you can add each at the appropriate time; wash, cut, and store vegetables in separate bowls. Stir-frying relies on even hotter heat than sautéing, which is sometimes attainable only on a commercial-grade cooktop. You’ll get best results at home if you heat the wok for several minutes before adding oil and if you cook different vegetables separately, allowing the pan to heat between batches. If stir-frying a small quantity or one that doesn’t require cooking in batches, add vegetables that will take longest first and those that cook quickest last. Either way, do not overcrowd your pan, or the vegetables will steam rather than sear. For extra browning, press vegetables against the side of the wok for a few seconds with a spatula. Stir-fried dishes are often tossed or served with a sauce, usually made by pouring stock or other flavorings directly to the pan. Sometimes a slurry—a thickening agent made of liquid and cornstarch or flour—is incorporated into the liquid to thicken the sauce. Be sure to bring the slurry to a full boil to activate the thickener, and then to cook for a minute or two to eliminate the starchy taste.

The secret to perfect fries—crisp on the outside and soft within—is to “fry” them twice, first to cook through, then to crisp and color. The first step is called blanching rather than deep-frying, since the temperature of the oil (300°F) is sufficient to soften, but not brown. (If you tried to cook them at a high temperature the whole time, the outsides would burn before the insides were cooked through.) The second step involves true deep-frying: the oil is brought up to 350°F—hot enough to quickly brown the outside without needing to cook the interior further. As with the sautéed rosti (page 329), the potatoes are soaked in water before cooking to remove excess starch, then dried thoroughly. Whenever deep-frying, remember that the oil should be maintained at the proper temperature, so you will need to adjust the heat as necessary. Unless you have a deep-fryer, use a cast-iron pot; it holds its heat better and distributes heat more evenly than other types. Also, frying can leave oil marks on stainless steel and other surfaces that are difficult to clean. To keep the temperature from dropping too much, add potatoes in batches; this will also ensure that they fry evenly and quickly. If the temperature spikes at any time, cool down the oil by adding some room-temperature oil to the pot. Be sure to salt the fries immediately after removing from the oil, when they are still piping hot. Any other seasonings (such as the lemon zest and rosemary below) are purely optional. Homemade mayonnaise (page 95) is an indulgent option for dipping. Or drizzle with malt vinegar for a tangy taste.

This roasting technique is unique to duck. For the skin to turn crisp, the thick layer of fat that covers the breast needs to be rendered. That’s the reason for the slow roasting at a low temperature (300°F as opposed to 450°F for chicken). This allows the duck enough time in the oven to render the fat before the breast meat has finished cooking, producing a duck with crisp, golden skin. To offset its richness, duck is often coated with a tangy glaze. In this recipe, the classic duck à l’orange, which put French-style duck on the American map, has been updated with a glaze that combines the flavors of pomegranate, honey, and orange.

With its clean taste and light body, Court Bouillon is used to poach fish, shellfish, and lean white meats such as chicken and veal, when you want to impart only subtle flavor. It can be as simple as a few aromatics steeped in water or more complex with a fruity white wine or other acidic ingredients, such as vinegar or lemon juice. As with stocks, you should feel free to improvise with whatever is in your vegetable bin (or garden, if you have one). The ingredients called for here are common, but you can leave out some or replace them with other mild-tasting herbs or vegetables. The goal is to avoid overpowering the food that will be poached in the liquid.

Peaches are used in this very basic recipe for fruit jam, but you could substitute an equal amount of apricots or plums in their place. Add it to ice cream, or use it to fill a jelly roll cake such as the one on page 464. The jam is quickly made and can be kept refrigerated in an airtight container up to 2 weeks. If you prefer, strain the jam in a fine sieve before storing.

The effect of salt-baking is similar to baking (or rather steaming) in parchment paper (en papilotte; see page 215): the salt absorbs steam and becomes a hard shell when baked, creating a vacuum inside that seals in flavor and moisture (without making the fish taste overly salty). As when cooking en papillote, you can layer the fish with aromatics—lemons and herbs as in this recipe, or ginger, scallions, and lemongrass for Asian flavors—for more complexity. Since the skin will not have crisped in the oven, you will need to remove it before serving the fish. Before doing this, you might want to invite your guests into the kitchen for a glimpse of the fish in its salt crust (it’s an impressive sight) and perhaps to assist you in cracking it open.

Fresh shell beans such as cranberry beans and black-eyed peas have a creamy yet dense texture; they are also easier and quicker to prepare than their dried counterparts, since no soaking is required and they cook in a fraction of the time. For this dish, everything is eventually sautéed in the same pan, although a few preliminary steps are required to make the most of the various components. The beans are simmered in an aromatic liquid until tender and infused with hints of cinnamon and herbs, and the kale is blanched to soften its sturdy leaves. If you want to skip this step, shred the kale finely so it will cook more quickly. Or substitute kale with more tender greens, such as escarole, dandelion, or chard, which can go straight into the sauté pan without being shredded or blanched.

This is the standard technique for poaching most thick (at least 1 inch) fish fillets or steaks, such as halibut or salmon. Similar to braising, the fish is gently simmered in a flavorful liquid, only in this method the fish is completely covered in liquid. (To poach thinner fillets, follow the shallow-poaching method on page 210, as they may overcook if deep poached.) The cooking time will depend on the thickness of the fillet; plan for 4 to 5 minutes per inch. In this recipe, halibut fillets are poached in chicken stock enhanced with a few aromatics and then served in their cooking liquid (a manner of serving called “à la nage”).

Prime rib, or standing rib roast, has long been a mainstay at the holiday table (where it is often paired with Yorkshire pudding, a British specialty made from the pan juices and a simple batter of flour, eggs, and milk). As it is expensive, prime rib should be handled with extra care. It is imperative that you have an instant-read thermometer for determining the internal temperature; if allowed to cook too long, the meat will no longer be a rosy pink inside, the optimal color for any high-quality roast. Remove the roast when still rare, as it will continue to cook as it rests, rising as much as 10 degrees in 20 minutes. Rubbing meat (as well as chicken and fish) with herbs, spices, and a bit of oil will add tremendous flavor. Here, the beef is coated with a mixture of bay leaves, sage, and orange zest, all familiar holiday flavors. Allowing the meat to “marinate” in the rub overnight deepens the flavor even more. A similar result is achieved by simply salting the meat a day or two before roasting, whereby the salt will have penetrated the meat much like a brining solution (page 126). Larger roasts such as prime rib, crown roast, and a whole turkey are started at a high temperature (450°F) to sear the meat, then the temperature is lowered after 30 minutes to prevent the outside from burning before the meat is cooked through. The exterior won’t develop a crust right away, but the initial high heat gives the outside a head start so that it will be perfectly browned in the end.

Lean, tender cuts of pork such as the loin are often roasted on the bone, which adds flavor and helps prevent the meat from drying out during cooking. Boneless pork is also delicious when roasted, so long as you avoid overcooking—a common refrain throughout any lesson on roasting—and build in flavor through various techniques, such as barding with pancetta (page opposite). Because the exterior of the pork will not “sear” in the oven when covered in pancetta, it needs to be browned first on the stove, then rubbed with herbs. To roast the pork without barding, do not sear it first on the stove; the initial high heat of the oven will promote sufficient browning. To ensure a flavorful outcome, season generously with salt and pepper, then rub with some olive oil along with the herbs. Or make small slits in the top of the loin and insert slivers of garlic in each (known as “larding” with garlic, rather than the traditional fatback or lard; this technique is demonstrated in the leg of lamb recipe that follows).

Making Italian meringue is a bit tricky, as it involves bringing the sugar syrup up to the right temperature and then immediately pouring it into beaten egg whites in a slow, steady stream. The hot syrup helps make the meringue stable; the higher ratio of sugar to eggs also contributes to its stability (making it ideal for wedding or other display cakes). Lemon juice or vanilla is added here to complement the flavors of the cake, but they are not essential ingredients for Italian meringue.

A tian is a Provençal creation named for the traditional earthenware baking dish. Be sure to drizzle generously with oil to impart flavor and keep the vegetables from drying out (remember, there’s no other liquid in a tian); you can spoon off excess oil after cooking.