Dairy Free
Khao Khua (Toasted-Sticky Rice Powder)
Editor's Note: Use this broth to make Andy Ricker's Het Paa Naam Tok (Isaan-style Forest Mushroom Salad) .
Flavor Profile: Aromatic
This powder, made from toasted uncooked sticky rice, is used primarily in Northeastern food to add a toasty quality and subtle texture to salads, and occasionally in Northern food as a thickening agent. Its contribution is initially hard to pin down, but it's one you'd actively miss if it weren't there. Making it at home is beyond simple: it just takes patience and stirring. The only way to screw it up is to try to rush the process with high heat so the outside burns before inside fully toasts. The truly committed will toast over a low charcoal fire so the rice picks up a little smokiness.
Flavor Profile: Aromatic
Khao Niaw (Sticky Rice)
Often the last thing people in the North and Northeast of Thailand do before bed is put raw grains of sticky rice in a pot, cover them with water, and leave them to soak. This is sticky rice country, and a day without sticky rice is almost unthinkable.
Also called glutinous rice, it has a different starch composition than varieties like jasmine. I'm not qualified to explain the world of amylopectin and amylose starches, so suffice it to say that the glossy cooked grains of sticky rice are particularly chewy and stick to one another in clumps, yet still remain distinct. It's a magical thing. Served in baskets, either one per person or as a mountainous mound to be passed around, the grains of sticky rice form moldable masses. Practiced diners snatch off a gumball-size piece, reflexively fashion it into a sort of spoon shape, and use it to grab a taste of whatever else is on the table. In these baskets or in bamboo tubes, workers carry this rice with them into the fields and forests, a portable, edible eating implement.
While you could argue that so-called "steamed jasmine rice" isn't steamed at all but rather boiled, sticky rice is actually steamed. In the Northeast, it typically goes into a bamboo basket; in the North, it's traditionally prepared in a clay pot with a perforated bottom, though today the pot is often aluminum. The basket or pot is set over a pot-bellied vessel filled with boiling water and the steam cooks the grains, already swollen from soaking, in just 15 minutes or so. The process is easy enough for uninitiated cooks. It just takes a little practice to get right.
Het Paa Naam Tok (Isaan-style Forest Mushroom Salad)
Flavor Profile: Spicy, tart, aromatic, salty, umami-rich
Try it with: Any Som Tam (Papaya salad and family) and/or Phat Khanaeng (Stir-fried Brussels sprouts). Needs Khao Niaw (Sticky rice).
The recipe for steak salad is a classic, but naam tok made with mushrooms is less common. Yet mushrooms are everywhere in Thailand and echo the texture and even the umami-rich flavor of animal flesh. Thailand has a long history of vegetarian food, for strict Buddhists and those celebrating Buddhist holidays. And while I rarely spend time considering the needs of vegetarians, I figured that if I swapped out the fish sauce in the original for thin soy sauce, then they'd have something to eat at Pok Pok.
Sautéed Kale with Lime Pickle
This is not your usual garlic-and- oil sauté: Lime pickle brings a spicy and pungent kick.
Poached Cod with Tomato and Saffron
You're going to want to add this gently spiced and meltingly tender fish to your simple weeknight meal rotation.
Chocolate Brownie Cookies
No one has to know these moist, chewy, decadent chocolate cookies are totally wheat-free.
Perfect Grass-Fed Beef Burgers
Adding onion delivers moisture; forming thicker patties prevents them from cooking too fast and drying out. Both steps are key when working with grass-fed ground beef.
Crispy Apple-Oat Fritters
If the batter thickens as it sits, thin with more club soda.
Basic Nut Milk
No matter how fanatical you are about straining the milk, some sediment will settle as it sits. Shake or stir before using.
Spicy Tamarind Skirt Steak
You'll see fibers running through the cooked steak; make sure to cut across them for tender slices.
Pot O' Beans
Our no-soak bean recipe is foolproof and ripe for improvisation. Feeling smoky and spicy? Herby and garlicky? Whatever moves you, throw it in and simmer away.
Slow-Roasted Salmon With Fennel, Citrus, and Chiles
This elegant salmon dish is perfect for a winter dinner party—just slide it into a low oven for 40 minutes and it’s ready to serve.
Spicy Pork and Mustard Green Soup
It might look like a lot when the greens are raw, but add them all anyway. They'll quickly wilt down to a silky texture.
Teriyaki Salmon
The salmon absorbs more teriyaki flavor as it sits, making it even better (and breakfast that much quicker) if done in advance.
Swiss Chard Salsa Verde
This deceptively simple condiment is as addictive as pesto and as transformative as a squeeze of lemon. Spoon it onto fish, chicken, steak, roasted vegetables, or even pasta.
Crispy Chicken with Shallots
Rubbing the marinade onto only the flesh side puts it in direct contact with the meat and lets the skin get extra-crisp with no fear of burned bits.
Tuscan Kale with Sesame Oil
Sesame oil will become bitter if it gets too hot, so cook over gentle heat.
Canal House Lentils
When cooked with aromatics and rich tomato sauce, lentils are anything but bland.
Pan-Seared Pork Blade Chop
Starting the chop in a hot pan lets you get a good initial sear; lowering the heat gives you control while it cooks through.
Sesame-Miso Vinaigrette
If the vibrancy of this dressing fades, perk it back up with more lime juice.