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Frittata di Ricotta The best ricotta is a farmer's jewel—thick, tangy, and, contrary to health regulations, unpasteurized. But we eat it anyway, at room temperature with a spoon, like kids skimming cream off the top of milk. Around Garfagnana, the mountain town where my mom grew up, this frittata is a staple, but is never served as an individual dish; the frittatas they made were huge and were sliced into single servings. You can't beat it for a buffet. It's also great with tomato sauce on top. Make sure to use the highest quality ricotta you can find.

We used strongly flavored wild greens because a mild salad would get lost with the rest of the menu. The dressing is a simple and classic vinaigrette.

Despite their name, Champagne grapes aren't used to make the sparkling wine. Legend has it that the grapes were so named because the tiny clusters of fruit resemble the bubbles in a glass of Champagne. What to drink: A crisp, ripe white. Try: Icon 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, House of Nobilo, Marlborough, New Zealand ($20).

The syrup is also used to coat the apple wedges and grapes that garnish each plate.

Fresh muscats are somewhat difficult to find, but they're worth seeking out for their musky flavor. what to drink: A smooth white. Try: La Crema 2003 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($24). The chicken paillards would also be wonderful paired with Robert Sinskey Vineyards 2004 Los Carneros Pinot Blanc, Napa ($18).

Use the season's first wild mushrooms in this satisfying vegetarian pasta.

This sweet-tart chutney is great alongside lamb or pork chops, atop goat cheese and crackers, or on biscuits with sliced ham.

You'll have more spice rub than you need for the Grillades . Try this seasoning on fish, pork, or beef dishes.

This recipe is an adaptation of the wonderful smash of vegetable served on the sliced-pork sandwiches at Philadelphia's Tony Lukes. Liberated from the bread, the dish has a slight bitterness that makes a great foil for the richness of Broiled Duck Breasts with Orange Chipotle Sauce .

Helene Cypress of Franklin Square, New York, writes: "My grandson loves this family favorite and always asks for it. I usually end up making extra to share with other guests and neighbors."