Yam Kai (Thai Eggs) with Leftover Grains

gluten free

Thai-style eggs, most commonly made with softened glass noodles rather than a whole grain, are incredibly versatile, appealing to me as a quick but fun and satisfying breakfast or lunch or supper because I usually have everything I need on hand. In fact, every time I make this—and I make it often—I'm amazed that such a dish essentially just came out of my fridge. It's even easier if you have a little bag of cooked rice or other grains in the freezer: Just break off a chunk, put it in a sieve, and rinse under cool water until the grains separate. If you don't have fish sauce, you can use 1 tablespoon soy sauce instead, and if you don't have chile paste, use a couple good pinches of crushed red chiles.

The one secret to good yam kai, in my experience, is that you must cook the shallots until they're almost burned. And the more of them you use, the better—as many as you can stand to peel and slice in the morning as you down your first cup of coffee; four is my limit.