Name: Steak au Poivre
Cook time: 35 min
Total time: 35 min
Yield: Makes 4 servings
Ingredients: 4 (3/4- to 1-inch-thick) boneless beef top-loin (strip) steaks (8 to 10 oz each); 1 tablespoon kosher salt; 2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns; 1 tablespoon vegetable oil; 1/3 cup finely chopped shallots; 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces; 1/2 cup Cognac or other brandy; 3/4 cup heavy cream

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We've run at least a dozen different recipes for steak au poivre since our first one, in 1953 — and there's a reason why, even after we started adorning meat with chiles, salts, and dry rubs, we continue to return to this dish. Why? Because it's so darn good. And despite its somewhat macho image, this particular preparation tastes practically tony. (We found it a good excuse to use fine-quality peppercorns, such as Tellicherry or the smoky, meaty Talamanca del Caribe.)

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