Roast Turkey and Pan Sauce

Name: Roast Turkey and Pan Sauce
Yield: serves 12 or more , with leftovers
Ingredients: 1 fresh turkey, 12 to 14 pounds, including neck and giblets; 1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt; 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil; 1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks; 2 large onions, peeled and chopped into 1-inch pieces; 3/4 pound celery stalks with leaves, rinsed and cut into 2-inch chunks; 1 ounce dried porcini slices, crumbled into 1/2-inch pieces; 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns; 6 short branches fresh rosemary, with plenty of needles; 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil; 1 teaspoon kosher salt, if needed; 4 to 6 cups Turkey Broth (page 80) or Simple Vegetable Broth (page 288); 1/4 cup Reduced Balsamic Vinegar, glaze consistency (page 39); Turkey Gravy; Quince, Cranberry, and Apple Sauce (page 367); Cotognata (page 368); Reduced Balsamic Vinegar (page 39); A heavy-duty roasting pan, at least 12 inches by 18 inches, preferably larger; A flat wire roasting rack, big enough to hold the turkey but small enough to leave space for vegetables on the pan bottom; Wide heavy-duty aluminum foil; A saucepan, a medium-mesh sieve, and a potato masher, to make the sauce; A kitchen brush, for painting the turkey with glaze (optional); 8 large eggs; 1/2 teaspoon salt; 2 cups fine dry bread crumbs; 2 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano; 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper; 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg; Zest of 1 lemon, finely grated; Zest of 1 small orange, finely grated

December 14, 2011

The turkey is a North American native that was taken to Europe, food historians tell us, by the early Spanish explorers. In Italy, it became a culinary favorite of the aristocracy quite quickly: I’ve been delighted to learn that sixty-six turkeys were served at a feast for Catherine de’ Medici in 1549. In my family, however, turkey was not a big deal until we came to North America, 400 years later. Like most of our neighbors in the 1950s, we mainly cooked and ate turkey as the centerpiece of Thanksgiving and other holiday feasts. But over the years, it has become a significant part of our everyday eating. As you’ve seen, turkey wings flavor our basic broth, and turkey breast cutlets are a family favorite. A whole roast turkey is still something special on our table. And after years of Thanksgiving and Christmas feasts and birthday dinners, I have perfected the two-stage, wet-then-dry turkey-roasting procedure that I present here. It’s unusual but it works. In fact, I roast all kinds of meats and poultry this way (as I explain below) to produce marvelously moist and flavorful meat with a crispy, caramelized exterior—and a rich pan sauce at the same time. For the autumn and winter holidays, I serve the turkey with seasonal trimmings—Quince, Cranberry, and Apple Sauce (page 367), Cotognata—Quince Chutney (page 368), and Gnoccho Grande for a stuffing. And I glaze the bird with balsamic-vinegar reduction for a deep mahogany sheen. Roast turkey is so good, though, and so economical, I hope you’ll cook it often, not just for Thanksgiving. For everyday dinners, follow the basic procedure for cooking a chicken or a small turkey (see below). You don’t have to give it the holiday touches every time: the bird will be beautiful without the glaze and delicious with just its natural pan sauce.

Recipe notes