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Peppered Venison Loin with Zinfandel Huckleberry Sauce

The venison we serve at Cakebread Cellars comes from Broken Arrow Ranch in Texas (see page 144). The meat is as dark as beef but much leaner, with even less cholesterol and fewer calories than skinless chicken breast. Like pork, venison has a natural sweetness that welcomes a tart, fruity sauce. At the 1998 Workshop, Bruce Hill paired it with wild huckleberries; wild blueberries make a good substitute. Serve the venison with potato puree, as Bruce did, or with Brussels sprouts, roasted root vegetables, or the celery root puree from The Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Cookbook.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 4

Ingredients

1 venison loin, trimmed of fat and silverskin, about 1 pound
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon coarsely cracked black peppercorns
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Zinfandel Huckleberry Sauce

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped
1 celery rib, coarsely chopped
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
1/2 Granny Smith apple, diced (no need to core)
1 cup Cakebread Cellars Zinfandel
1/2 cup ruby port
3 cups chicken stock (page 190)
1 sprig fresh thyme
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh huckleberries or frozen wild Maine blueberries, thawed
2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Rub the venison with the oil, thyme, peppercorns, and salt. Let stand for 1 hour at room temperature.

    Step 2

    For the sauce: Heat the oil in a 4-quart saucepan over high heat. Add the onion, celery, carrots, and apple. Sauté over high heat, stirring often, until the vegetables caramelize slightly, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the Zinfandel and port. Simmer briskly until reduced to a syrup, about 15 minutes. Add the chicken stock, thyme, and 1/2 cup huckleberries. Simmer until reduced to a sauce consistency, about 30 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing on the solids. You should have about 1/2 cup sauce. Return the sauce to a small saucepan and add the remaining 2 tablespoons huckleberries.

    Step 3

    Preheat the oven to 500°F. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over high heat. Add the 2 tablespoons oil. When the oil is almost smoking, add the venison and sear on all sides, about 2 minutes total, then transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the venison until the internal temperature reaches 120°F (for medium-rare), 5 to 6 minutes. Let rest for 5 minutes before carving.

    Step 4

    To serve, slice the venison about 1/4 inch thick. Gently warm the sauce. Arrange the venison on dinner plates and spoon the sauce around it, not over it. Serve immediately.

  2. Step 5

    Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Zinfandel or another full-bodied red wine with plentiful fruit.

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