I get emails all the time asking for Philadelphia-style hoagie and cheesesteak rolls. There is something about the cultural connection we Philly folk have with these iconic sandwiches that makes many people believe that Philadelphia’s Amoroso’s Baking Company is the only place to find a good hoagie roll, which is, of course, not true. The key to this type of roll is a nice balance of texture and flavor, somewhere between lean dough and soft enriched dough, with just enough “chew” to stand up to the fillings without making it overly hard to eat the darn thing. The overnight fermentation method is ideal for this because it brings out maximum flavor with very little hands-on time. The optional barley malt syrup provides a nice undertone of flavor that’s difficult to identify and also helps with crust color. This dough also makes great Kaiser rolls.
Recipe information
Yield
makes 10 seven-inch rolls or 5 foot-long rolls
Ingredients
Preparation
Do ahead
Step 1
In a mixing bowl, whisk the flour, salt, and sugar together. In a separate bowl, whisk the malt syrup, egg, and oil together. Separately, combine the water and milk, then whisk in the instant yeast until dissolved.
Step 2
Add the oil mixture and the water mixture to the dry ingredients. If using a mixer, switch to the dough hook and mix on the lowest speed, or continue mixing by hand, for 4 minutes to form a coarse ball of dough. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes.
Step 3
Mix for 2 minutes more on medium-low speed or by hand with a spoon, adjusting with flour or water as needed to form a smooth, supple, and tacky but not sticky dough.
Step 4
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 1 minute, working in more flour or water as needed. Form the dough into a ball.
Step 5
Place the dough in a clean, lightly oiled bowl large enough to hold the dough when it doubles in size. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap, then immediately put it in the refrigerator overnight or for up to 4 days. (If you plan to bake the dough in batches over different days, you can portion the dough and place it into two or more oiled bowls at this stage.)
On baking day
Step 6
Remove the dough from the refrigerator about 2 hours before you plan to bake and transfer it to a lightly floured work surface. Divide the cold dough into 4-ounce (113 g) pieces for 7-inch rolls or 8-ounce (227 g) pieces for foot-long rolls. Flatten each piece of dough with your hand, then form it into a 4-inch torpedo shape, or a 7-inch torpedo shape for foot-long rolls, much as you would a bâtard (see page 21). Let each piece of dough rest as you move on to the other pieces. When you return to the first torpedo, gently roll it back and forth to extend it out to about 7 inches, or 13 inches for a foot-long roll. The roll should have only a very slight taper at the ends. Place the rolls on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper or a silicone mat with about 2 inches between the rolls (it may take 2 pans if you bake the entire batch). The rolls may shrink back about 1 inch as you pan them. Mist the tops of the rolls with spray oil, cover loosely with plastic wrap, then let the dough rise at room temperature for about 1 hour.
Step 7
Remove the plastic wrap from the rolls. Continue to proof the dough for another 15 minutes, uncovered. The dough will rise only slightly—not more than 1 1/2 times its original size.
Step 8
Use a sharp serrated knife or razor blade to cut a slit down the center of each roll, about 1/4 inch deep and about 3 1/2 inches long (or 8 inches for foot-long rolls). Let the dough proof for 15 minutes after you make the cuts. Place a steam pan in the oven (a cast-iron frying pan or sheet pan works just fine) and preheat the oven to 425°F (218°C).
Step 9
Transfer the rolls to the oven, pour 1 cup of hot water into the steam pan, then lower the oven temperature to 400°F (204°C).
Step 10
Bake for 10 minutes, then rotate the pan and bake for another 10 to 20 minutes, until the rolls are a light golden brown and their internal temperature is 190°F (88°C) in the center.
Step 11
Cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before slicing or serving.
Variation
Step 12
Feel free to substitute whole wheat flour or other whole grain flours for some of the bread flour. If you do so, increase the water by about 1 tablespoon (0.5 oz / 14 g) for every 7 tablespoons (2 oz / 56.5 g) of whole grain flour you substitute.
