The fish fry is right up on the list of orchestrated Southern feasts, along with the “pig pull” and “dinner on the grounds.” It’s a great party and wildly different from throwing a few burgers on the grill. And fried fish are just flat-out good. My grandparents met at a fish fry in 1930 and were inseparable through almost 65 years of marriage. They were a great team but there was no doubt who was the boss. For as long as I can remember, they had a motor home. They drove as far south as the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico and to Fairbanks at the far end of the Alaska Highway, where they caught a small plane to the North Pole. I was able to take several long trips with them when I was young. Once the three of us drove north, through Detroit into Canada, east to Nova Scotia, where we caught the ferry to Newfoundland. We were on the one main road in Newfoundland to St. John’s and were about halfway across the island when Meme looked at my grandfather and said, “Sam, pull over in that gas station. I’m ready to go home.” He did, and we did.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Line a plate with paper towels and set by the cooktop.
Step 2
In a large bowl, stir together the mustard, egg white, and hot sauce. Add the fish and toss to coat well. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Step 3
In a shallow dish, combine the cornmeal and flour and season with salt and pepper. Pour the oil into a heavy-bottomed saucepan, deep fryer, or Dutch oven, filling it no more than one-third full. Heat the oil over medium heat until it reaches 350°F.
Step 4
Remove the fish from the marinade and season with salt and pepper. Dredge the fish in the cornmeal mixture to coat both sides and shake off the excess. Carefully add the fish to the oil, a few pieces at a time. Cook until golden brown and crispy, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to the prepared plate. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve with the rémoulade.
mustard
Step 5
Dijon mustard is a puree made from husked brown mustard seed blended with white wine, vinegar, salt, and spices. It is straw yellow, and varies from mild to very hot. Dijon mustard is a necessary ingredient for creamy emulsified vinaigrettes and dressings. It is also an absolute must-have condiment for Pot au Feu (page 240). Try a dollop on grilled meats or fish when you don’t have time to prepare a sauce for a burst of flavor. Whole-grain mustard, also called grainy mustard, coarse mustard, or ancienne, is whole mustard seed blended with some mustard puree. It adds great texture to sauces and marinades. Creole mustard is a variation of wholegrain mustard with seeds that are slightly crushed rather than completely ground or left whole. It goes well with fish and shellfish, and is traditionally served on a po’ boy sandwich. All mustard should be stored in the refrigerator and replaced frequently.
