Cranberry Relish With Pineapple and Orange

When this cranberry relish, inspired by a Bon Appétit recipe, debuted at our 2012 Thanksgiving table, my mom was skeptical. (Then again, she’s skeptical of most new things.) “You don’t cook the cranberries?” No, I explained. It was more of a relish and less of a sauce, a nice hit of brightness amid all the buttery richness of the Thanksgiving meal. She gave clearance for my niece Alison and me to try it but, just in case, also served her own alongside. The 2012 notes say, “Cranberry newcomer this year,” without any editorializing, but underneath, I noticed she also wrote, “Next year, make both again.”