Crab and Shrimp Rice Noodle Soup

Name: Crab and Shrimp Rice Noodle Soup
Yield: serves 6
Ingredients: 3 1/2 quarts (14 cups) plus 1 1/4 cups water; 1 live Dungeness crab, 1 1/2 pounds; 2/3 cup dried shrimp; 1 3/4 teaspoons salt; 2 tablespoons fish sauce; 8 egg whites, lightly beaten; 3 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil; 1 yellow onion, finely chopped; 1 can (28 ounces) whole tomatoes, coarsely chopped with juices reserved; 3 tablespoons fine shrimp sauce; 1 pound small dried round rice noodles, cooked in boiling water for 3 to 5 minutes, drained, and flushed with cold water; 2 or 3 scallions, green part only, thinly sliced; 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, leafy tops only; 1/4 to 1/3 pound water spinach stems, split into fine shreds, soaked in water to curl, and drained, or leaves from 1 small head romaine lettuce, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide ribbons; 3 cups bean sprouts (about 1/2 pound); 3/4 cup thinly sliced banana blossom bract (leaf), soaked in acidulated water, massaged with warm water, and drained well (optional; see Note); 2 or 3 limes, cut into wedges; 12 to 20 sprigs Vietnamese balm and/or Thai basil (optional); Spoonful of fine shrimp sauce (optional); Mellow Chile-Garlic Mix (page 315), optional

December 14, 2011

This heady combination of seafood and tomato comes from the north, where it is traditionally made from small rice-field crabs called cua đong. To extract enough flavor, cooks use many crabs, removing their back shells and pounding their bodies. The crushed crab is combined with water, carefully filtered, and finally mixed with fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) to create a broth base. When heated, the crab solids rise to the top, forming a rich, seafood-laden floater that is the signature of the soup. Sections of the floater are carefully spooned atop round rice noodles (bun) before the broth is ladled into each bowl. A garnish plate of raw vegetables, limes, and fresh herbs accompanies the soup. When I was a child, our family re-created this soup by using the tiny rock crabs foraged among the rocks at the local harbor. Nowadays, I make this more convenient and equally tasty version. Unlike many Vietnamese Americans (including my mom), I don’t use canned bún riêu cua soup base. Rather, I start with a live Dungeness crab and mix its meat and tomalley with ground shrimp and egg for the floater. Since Dungeness crab season (November through May) doesn’t coincide with tomato season, I use premium canned tomatoes instead of fresh ones. If you are substituting other types of crab, you will need enough to yield 6 ounces of meat.

Recipe notes