Churros and chocolate have a long history at Lucques, and an even longer one in Spain, where they dominate the dessert scene in late-night cafés. The hot chocolate is made thick and syrupy sweet, meant for dipping the piping-hot crullers. In preparation for one Spanish-themed Sunday supper, my former pastry chef Kimberly Sklar experimented with traditional churro recipes from Spanish cookbooks. Though the flavors were good, the Spanish versions seemed a little too heavy and not tender enough for our liking. Then Kim tried a batch of pâte à choux, the traditional French dough used to make such pastries as cream puffs and éclairs. It was the perfect solution. Next we set out to conquer the chocolate. Again, in my opinion, the traditional Spanish hot chocolate was better in theory than in reality. Spaniards love sugar, and their version is just too sweet for my taste. Still thick and rich in the vein of the traditional chocolate, ours is super-chocolaty but not as cloyingly sweet. I like to add a generous pinch of salt, to play up the bittersweet notes of the chocolate. This is a festive, interactive dessert that requires some last-minute attention when it’s time to fry the churros. Make the batter and hot chocolate ahead, and just before you serve dessert, invite your friends into the kitchen to help you fry. It’s fun to watch the dough transform into deep golden brown snakes and then to roll them in the glittery cinnamon-sugar.
Ingredients
Hot Chocolate
Preparation
Step 1
Bring the milk, 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon water, salt, 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar, and the butter to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Remove the pan from the heat, and add all the flour at once. Stir together with a wooden spoon, and return the pan to the stove over low heat. Work the batter back and forth, stirring with a wooden spoon, to dry the batter. When the dough begins to roll away from the sides of the pan, cook another 5 minutes.
Step 2
Transfer the batter to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. With the mixer running at low speed, drop the eggs and egg yolk in one by one, waiting for each to be incorporated before adding the next. Let the batter rest at least 2 hours in the refrigerator before using.
Step 3
Heat the oil to 350°F on a deep-frying thermometer, over medium heat, in a heavy wide-bottomed pan.
Step 4
Place the dough in a pastry bag fitted with a number-4 star tip. (You may have to do this in batches.)
Step 5
Combine the cinnamon and remaining 1/2 cup sugar in a bowl.
Step 6
Squeeze 4-inch-long pieces of dough into the oil. Don’t overcrowd the pan; the churros shouldn’t be touching. Fry the churros 2 to 3 minutes, turning them gently with tongs once or twice to brown all sides. Test one to make sure the center is done. It should be cooked all the way through and have a crisp exterior and soft center.
Step 7
Drain the churros on paper towels, and pat to remove any excess oil. While they’re still hot, roll each churro in the cinnamon sugar, and serve right away with cups of the hot chocolate for dipping.
Hot Chocolate
Step 8
Place the chocolate in a double boiler and melt over medium heat. Whisk in 1/4 cup hot water to incorporate.
Step 9
Sift the cocoa powder into a large mixing bowl. Whisk in about 2 tablespoons milk, to form a paste. Whisk in the rest of the milk, the cream, vanilla, and salt.
Step 10
Whisk the milk-and-cocoa mixture into the melted chocolate, and transfer to a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over low heat, whisking continuously.
Note
Step 11
The batter for the churros can be made up to 8 hours in advance but must be made at least 2 hours ahead. You will need a pastry bag fitted with a number-4 star tip to pipe the churros into the hot oil.
