Raised by resourceful and persnickety parents, I always cut and bone my own chickens because I know I will get the pieces the way I want them. Left over bones and scraps are frozen in plastic bags for future stock-making sessions. When the bags are full, it is time to make stock. If you don’t maintain a supply of bones in the freezer, you can buy necks, backs, and wings at the meat counter of the supermarket or at the butcher shop. Many Asian cooks don’t salt their stock, assuming that salt will be added later. I prefer to salt my stock lightly, which allows me to gauge its overall flavor better. If time is tight, make the quick version included in the Note that follows.
Recipe information
Yield
makes about 3 quarts (about 12 cups)
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Rinse the chicken under cool water to remove any bloody residue. Remove and discard any loose pieces of fat. Wielding a heavy cleaver designed for chopping bones, whack the bones to break them partway or all the way through, making the cuts at 1- to 2-inch intervals, depending on the size of the bone. This exposes the marrow, which enriches the stock.
Step 2
Put the bones in a stockpot, add the water, and place over high heat. Bring almost to a boil and then lower the heat to a simmer. For the next few minutes, use a ladle or large, shallow spoon to skim off and discard the scum that rises to the top. Add the onion, ginger, and salt and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Let the stock cook, uncovered, for 2 1/2 hours.
Step 3
Remove the pot from the heat and let stand undisturbed for 30 minutes, to allow the impurities to settle and congeal. Position a fine-mesh sieve (or a coarse-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth) over a large saucepan. Gently ladle the stock through the sieve. Remove and discard the bones as they get in your way. Tilt the stockpot to ladle out as much clear stock as possible, then discard the sediment-laden liquid and any remaining bits at the bottom of the pot.
Step 4
Taste the stock. If it is not as flavorful as you would like, simmer it to reduce the liquid and concentrate the flavors. Once you are satisfied with the taste, let the stock cool completely, cover, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, or until the fat solidifies on the surface. Remove and discard the fat. The stock is now ready to use. Or, store in a tightly capped container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Notes
Step 5
Like many cooks, I keep a supply of canned chicken broth in my cupboard for emergencies. (Choose a brand that tastes like chicken and not much else.) Before using it for Vietnamese dishes, I doctor it to give it an Asian flavor. In a pinch, here is how to mimic homemade stock closely.
Step 6
In a saucepan, dilute the canned broth (use the full-sodium kind) with water in a ratio of 2 parts broth to 1 part water. For example, if you are starting with 3 cups broth, add 1 1/2 cups water. Start with between 5 and 10 percent more liquid than what you will actually need, as there will be some evaporation during the short simmering.
Step 7
For every 4 cups liquid, you will need 2 quarter-sized slices ginger and 1 scallion, cut into 3-inch lengths. Lightly smash these ingredients with the broad side of a cleaver or chef’s knife. Bring the broth and water to a simmer, add the ginger and scallion, and simmer gently, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Discard the scallion and ginger. Th e stock is now ready to use.
