I can’t resist a piece of calf’s liver when I see it—all too infrequently—in the meat counter. It’s even better if you get it from a considerate butcher who will cut an even-sized 1/4-inch slice and spare you the finicky job of removing the outside membrane. Liver in a winey sauce is particularly good on a cold winter night; somehow I always feel my red corpuscles are strengthened by its rich meatiness. I like it with some potatoes alongside. If you have a couple of cooked potatoes, you can brown them in a little butter while the liver cooks, or if you don’t have them on hand, try grating a medium raw potato through the coarse holes of a grinder and make a quick potato pancake.
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Sprinkle the flour and a pinch of salt on a piece of wax paper. Dredge the liver, cut into two pieces if it is large, in the flour. Heat 1 teaspoon of the butter in a small heavy skillet over moderately high heat. When it starts to sizzle, drop the liver into the pan. Sauté quickly, still over quite high heat, for about 1 minute on each side, then remove to a plate. Clean out the burned butter left in the pan, let the pan cool a little, and melt the remaining butter over moderate heat. Toss in the shallot. Cook, stirring, until it softens, and splash a little wine into the pan. Let it reduce quickly and then add another splash and return the liver to the pan. Cook to warm through. Check to see if the liver is done to your liking by cutting into a piece; I like it still rosy. Salt and pepper the liver lightly, remove to a warm plate, spooning the shallot and pan sauce over it, and sprinkle parsley on top.
Second Round
Step 2
I find the usual supermarket-packaged piece of liver too big for me so I set aside a piece, about 2 ounces, to make an unusual and delicious pasta (see page 182).
