Chez Paul, located near the port of Marseille, stands at a crossroads with three other fish restaurants. But the license from the Beth Din of Marseille, hanging on the wall, certifying that the restaurant is kosher, sets this one apart. When I visited Chez Paul, Fathi Hmam, the Tunisian Muslim chef, was busy prepping bouillabaisse for the evening’s dinner. Technically, his bouillabaisse stew is a bourride, because it only has fish with fins and scales—those that swim near the magnificent rocky shore of this ancient port city of France. But he does not use lotte (monkfish), also a nonkosher fish, central to fish bourrides in Marseille. Bourride is one of the oldest dishes in France, said to have been brought by the Phoenicians in the sixth century B.C.E. Of course, the tomatoes and potatoes arrived much later. It is also said that a few Jews came with the Phoenicians on this voyage. Is that why, perhaps, there is no shellfish in the bourride? The success of this simple dish depends on knowing at what moment the fish is perfectly cooked. And, of course, don’t forget the rouille (see page 63), which North African Jews and Muslims alike make their own by adding a Tunisian touch: harissa.
Recipe information
Yield
8 servings
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Put the olive oil, the wine, 8 cups of fish broth or water, salt, pepper, the orange peel, saffron, onion, garlic, leek, fennel, anise seeds, tomatoes, carrots, thyme, and parsley sprig in a 6-quart casserole, and bring to a boil. Simmer for about 15 minutes.
Step 2
Add the potatoes, and cook for about 10 minutes, or until they are almost done. Then add the fish in two batches, starting with firmer fish and waiting about a minute to put in the next batch. Simmer, covered, for 5 to 7 minutes, until done, adding more broth if necessary. Fish out the orange peel, the thyme, and the parsley; use a knife to slice the fish carefully, adjust seasonings with salt and pepper; and sprinkle on the diced parsley. Serve immediately in one big bowl with some of the broth. Place the fish and ladle the broth on top. Slice the baguette into small rounds, toast, and serve with a teaspoon or so of rouille on top. Serve the remainder of the baguette and the rouille on the side.
