Artichokes are the flower buds of a domesticated thistle plant. There are large green globe artichokes, small violet ones, and purple ones. Some are smooth, without a single thorn, and some have leaves tipped with sharp, treacherous spikes. Each variety has its own unique flavor. Artichokes are best when young and freshly harvested. A more mature artichoke will have a larger choke (the hairy interior) and tougher flesh. Look for brightly colored, tightly closed artichokes with stems that look freshly cut, not shriveled. Artichokes can be cooked whole or pared down to their pale-colored hearts. To pare large artichokes, pull off all of the small leaves (petals, really) along the stem. Then with a heavy sharp knife, cut away the top of the artichoke to about 1 inch above the base. With a small sharp knife, pare away all the dark green from the stem, base, and outer leaves. Scoop out the choke with a small spoon. If you’re not cooking the artichoke heart right away, rub it with a cut lemon or submerge it in water acidulated with lemon juice or vinegar to prevent the cut surfaces from oxidizing and turning dark brown. Small young artichokes are prepared similarly; break off the outer leaves until you reach the light green interior leaves with darker green tips. Cut the tops of the leaves off at the point where the two colors meet. Pare away the dark green parts of the stem and base. Don’t be timid about trimming away all of the dark green leaves and parts of the artichoke, as they are fibrous and will not soften, no matter how long they are cooked. Once again, if the artichokes are to be cooked fairly soon they don’t need to be treated, but otherwise rub them with a cut lemon or put them in a bowl of acidulated water.
Ingredients
Preparation
Trim off the cut end of the stem of each artichoke and cut off any thorns from the leaves. You can do this easily with a pair of scissors. Plunge the artichokes into abundant rapidly boiling salted water and cook until tender, about 30 minutes for large artichokes. Test for doneness by probing the bottom of the artichoke around the stem with a small sharp knife or skewer. To steam, prepare the artichoke the same way and steam, tightly covered, over rapidly boiling water. Serve with a ramekin of melted butter or homemade mayonnaise—plain or flavored with lemon, garlic, and herbs (see page 47).
