I was twenty years old when I tasted my first fresh apricot. I was baking in a restaurant in upstate New York, and one day the produce person handed me a small paper sack of dewy orange orbs. I’d eaten many a dried apricot in my lifetime but had neither seen nor tasted a fresh one, and frankly, I didn’t know what to do with them. Since I had just a handful, I made one singularly gorgeous apricot tart that I kept away from prying hands (the greatest hazard for the pastry chef in any professional kitchen), slicing it carefully so eight lucky customers were able to have a taste. My first summer in California, I was amazed at how many fresh apricots there were and thought that the stacks of crates at the market were a one-time windfall. So I started hoarding them, making as many things as I could before they disappeared forever. Or so I thought. When next year rolled around and the cases of apricots started stacking up again, I learned that they were actually quite common and rather prolific. But to this day, when they’re in season I try to use as many as I can, still mindful of how precious each and every silky-soft apricot is. And don’t be put off by apricots that are so ripe they feel like they’re ready to burst. That’s when they’re at their best.
Recipe information
Yield
makes about 1 quart (1 liter)
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Split the apricots in half, remove the pits, and cut each apricot into sixths. Cook the apricot pieces with the water in a medium, nonreactive saucepan over medium heat, covered, stirring occasionally, until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar. Let cool to room temperature.
Step 2
Purée the mixture in a blender or food processor until smooth. Taste a spoonful, and if there are any small fibers, press the purée through a mesh strainer. Stir in the almond or vanilla extract.
Step 3
Chill the mixture thoroughly, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Perfect Pairing
Step 4
Turrón Ice Cream (page 66), flavored with honey and nuts, goes very nicely with the tangy taste of Apricot Sorbet.
Had a Meltdown?
Step 5
If neglected in the freezer for too long, sorbets can become icy and crystallized. If this happens, simply rechurn any of the fruit sorbets in your ice cream machine, which will make them taste as good as new.
