Side

Like most Francophiles, when we are not traveling to French-speaking (and -eating) destinations, we are at home, dreaming of them and inspired by them as we cook the foods we love. Steak frites is the definitive French bistro dish; our portobello version features a juicy red wine reduction that sings with tarragon and a touch of Dijon. You can easily make restaurant-crisp fries at home with the Vedge method: start with baked potatoes, then crisp them up in a little oil.

When we visited Kyoto, a few hours' ride from Tokyo on the famous Bullet train, we found a little restaurant in the heart of town that won us over with the names of dishes listed on the menu: Firecracker Tofu, Pickled Mixed Radish Salad, and the mysterious sounding Okonomiyaki. The chefs were clearly having fun at this place, and we were blown away by the depth of flavor they achieved with such simple preparations. We threw back some sake and tore through plate after plate of food. This salad is inspired by that meal, featuring quirky sea beans (a seaweed-like swamp/beach vegetable) and the haunting flavor of shiso (Japanese mint). You can find fresh sea beans at a gourmet market. If they're not available, substitute pencil-thin asparagus. Look for shiso in Asian markets, but substitute fresh cilantro if you can't find it.

Toss cooked grains with sweet-tart tangerines for a side dish that only gets better with age—lunch tomorrow, anyone?

Take cornbread up a notch with this sweet-and-savory version studded with sautéed, thyme-scented apples.

Yeasted doughs might seem daunting to novice bakers, but these rolls are very simple to make.

The tang of sour cream gives the illusion that this recipe is not as rich as the cream, butter, and milk would imply.

The dressing should be emulsified when you add the butter. Keeping it warm will prevent it from separating, but if it does, add a couple drops of water and whisk again to bring it back together.

Adding sour cream to the dough imparts richness and a bit of tang, and doesn't thin it out too much.

The key to gratins is having all the ingredients—whether they're basic potatoes or the mixed root vegetables below—sliced the same thickness so they cook at the same rate. Make friends with a mandoline: It quickly yields precise, even slices.

Aptly named beluga lentils look like little beads of caviar. They cook quickly, and they hold their shape.

This side dish is equally good with steak, broiled fish, or seared lamb chops.

We recommend using finely ground cornmeal to give these the ideal texture.

This recipe is ripe for reinvention; use different breads and add-ins to vary the flavor.

Diminutive and sweet hakurei turnips are in season and perfect for this dish; find them at farmers' markets.

We make lots of things from scratch on Thanksgiving, but pumpkin purée isn't one of them.

A double boost of basil, from the pesto and the fresh leaves, gives this whole wheat couscous a flavor lift. It's perfect for busy weeknights when you are starving for quick and easy carbs. Home-cooked chickpeas taste best, but canned chickpeas work fine when you're in a rush. And pesto from a jar is a perfectly good replacement for homemade. Serve next to sautéed fish or chicken.

Make ahead: Prepare the buckwheat in advance, through drying the grains on a baking sheet: Cover the cooked, separate groats on their baking sheet and store in the fridge for up to 2 days.

Chelsea Lincoln This dressing makes a tasty side dish baked on its own. The variations given below dress it up for holidays and make it especially good for stuffing a turkey or other bird—not to mention pork chops and chicken breast.