Seafood

A marinade of Cajun seasoning, soy, and honey make these roasted shrimp extra flavorful.

Every region of Italy with a coastline has a characteristic fish soup. This Roman version is spicy with garlic and hot chile. It contains a minimum of liquid, so it is more like a stew than a soup. Use whatever fish varieties are available with the exception of strong-flavored oily fish, which would overwhelm the delicate shellfish.

(Tonno alla Livornese) Of the countless preparations for tuna that diners will run across in coastal towns in Tuscany, this one is the most well known. It comes from Livorno, a populous port famous for its seafood restaurants. Simple and quick to put together, the dish combines the best of the area, from the delicious red tuna available mostly in spring and summer to the tomatoes that have become a hallmark of all of Italy. The sauce begins with a trito, a mixture of aromatic vegetables. Ripe tomatoes, a bay leaf and plenty of fresh basil complete it.

Southerners expect and almost demand a savory spread at any even involving cocktails (which mans virtually all social get-togethers), so Mother certainly would never disappoint her guests at a formal cocktail supper, even when one or two other appetizers are served. (We won't even get into how Rebels also relish sweet appetizers with their drinks.) She uses this basic formula also to make crabmeat spinach, and ham spreads, so feel free to experiment.

Look for Old Bay seasoning in the spice section of the supermarket.

The tortilla strips need to dry overnight, so begin making this one day ahead.

A delicious alternative to gefilte fish. Have the fishmonger fillet the whitefish.

Catalan chicory, or puntarelle, is the green of choice for this salad dressing, although Belgian endive can also he substituted. Arugula and most other full-flavored salad greens also pair well with the dressing. As regards anchovies, whole ones packed in suit are more work to cook with but taste best; bottled anchovies are a good second choice; canned (and therefore hidden from inspection) are the last decent option. Anchovy paste is made from leftovers and not really worth buying. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less but requires additional unattended time.

The somen noodles called for in this recipe are a very thin Japanese wheat noodle. They are available in the Asian section of many supermarkets, at Southeast Asian markets and at specialty foods stores.

For hearty appetites allow 1 pound of filet for each guest. Be sure to get whole, not sliced, filet. Ask the butcher to lard the filets for you, or if you have a larding needle you can do it yourself.

A refreshing starter from Arrows in Ogunquit, Maine.

Mark Taylor of West Hartford, Connecticut, writes: "I started cooking out of necessity when I first graduated from college, since I couldn't afford to eat out. Having grown up watching my mother cook for our large family, I used her recipes. She was always trying new dishes whenever we had guests and sharing her adventurous attitude toward eating. These days, even though my wife and I both work, we still cook several times a week. Now I tend to rely on recipes I've picked up from restaurants and friends. I enjoy experimenting with different ingredients and figuring out new ways to improve a recipe, as I've done with the one here." Serve the fish and sauce over couscous.

Pernod, the beloved French anise-flavored aperitif, adds an interesting twist to the sauce. Offer Champagne with the starters.

At the restaurant the chef garnishes this dish with fresh seasonal flowers, chervil, and chives.