Salmon

Forget gefilte fish and try this instead: a version of a French classic called carpe à la juive. (It calls for salmon trout instead of carp.) The fish (opposite) is chilled overnight, so begin the recipe a day ahead. Pour a Riesling.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Makes use of the microwave oven.

A sprinkling of orange peel and parsley contrasts with the spicy crust on the salmon fillets. Serve with corn on the cob and a crisp, cold Chardonnay.

Can be prepared in less than 45 minutes.

Start with grilled country bread spread with olive paste, or olivada, available at Italian markets, specialty foods stores and some supermarkets. Or puree pitted, black, brine-cured olive oil in a processor.

Kedgeree, an Indian-influenced British dish, dates back to the 1800s and is traditionally made with smoked whitefish. It can be served for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

In the late nineteenth century, salmon was so abundant in Scotland that servants refused to eat it more than three times a week — but then again, they didn't have the recipe for this delicious hash. Top each serving of the hash with one or two poached eggs. Make a watercress salad with a simple vinaigrette to have alongside, and offer a pitcher of mimosas or some juice to drink.

Here's a party main dish that is easy to prepare and makes a lovely presentation.

The following is chef Robert Freitag's variation of a recipe by Joyce Goldstein, chef-owner of Square One, in San Francisco, until it closed in 1996. The chef likes to use king salmon when making this dish.

Serve with: Grilled portobello mushrooms and a rice salad with sliced radishes. Dessert: Scoops of coconut, pineapple, and passion-fruit sorbets drizzled with rum.

This sophisticated appetizer from Aqua in San Francisco is nice for a special occasion.

If you can't find pancetta, you can substitute regular bacon.