Herbs & Spices

Food Editor: Gina Marie Miraglia Eriquez
Father: Alexander J. Miraglia, Howard Beach, NY
No matter what Italian restaurant we visit, my dad can't seem to resist ordering linguine with clams. Although they're not technically clams, cockles work best in this dish, since they're very small and have tender, sweet flesh. You can identify them by their tiny size (about 1/2 to 1 inch across) and green-tinged shells.

Be sure to use fresh spring peas for this classic side dish. Save the frozen ones for something else.

This tastes like vanilla ice cream and feels like snow.

Because the vinegar is simply drizzled over the radicchio at the end, try to find an artisan-quality balsamic, such as one labeled condimento, if not a premium balsamico tradizionale. Radicchio is also good when grilled on a barbecue or in a stovetop grill pan. Oil the grill or grill pan and cook until wilted and slightly charred, turning occasionally, about 5 minutes.

Fagiolini in Umido Many versions of this simple, fresh, and flavorful contorno (vegetable side dish) are served in Italy. Lightly braising the green beans cooks them to a pleasingly crisp yet tender texture.

The quality of the ricotta made near Florence inspired cooks there to create these dumplings. Seasonal leeks add their earthiness to the gnocchi, and bright green favas sautéed in butter with sage are the edible garnish.

Anatra Ripiena This is virtuoso trattoria cooking; not modest, certainly, but authentic. What to drink: A reserve Chianti. Try: Fontodi Chianti Riserva.

In Italian, saltimbocca means "to jump in the mouth." The flavors in this veal dish do just that. To save time, ask the butcher to pound the scaloppine for you.

Nasi Kerabu
Make sure to buy the larger dried shrimp and select those that are bright pink or pink-orange (they brown and harden with age). Lesser grades of dried shrimp tend to be unpleasantly pungent. It's also important to use a fine-quality rice — what you can buy at most supermarkets will yield mediocre results.

Just in time for Derby Day, this dessert has fewer calories than a mint julep (and you can drive home afterward).

These skewers are traditionally made with Brazilian queijo de coalho, a dense, salty white cheese very similar in taste and texture to the Haloumi we use here. Soaking the cheese on the skewers removes some of the salt and prevents the skewers from burning.

This is a simple variation on the classic French brandade, traditionally made with salt cod. Prepare the crostini while your potatoes are simmering.