Fish

Yes, we know that real risotto uses arborio rice, but we also know that it has to be stirred constantly for 40 minutes and that’s not a good way to impress your date. Arborio rice releases more starch as it cooks than other types of rice, making risotto very creamy. This version is still really creamy, but can be prepped ahead of time and finished in less than 15 minutes.

I know you are probably thinking, “Me make fish . . . how about No.” I promise you this dish is perfect date food, not only tasty but easy and impressive. Come on, three ingredients including the side dish. It doesn’t get any easier than that. All the seasoning comes from the cheese, so it’s foolproof and only takes about 5 minutes to get ready. Better yet, it cooks in foil so there are no pans to wash.

I know this chapter is “Just Like Mom Makes,” but this is actually one of my dad’s specialties. With his culinary repertoire being limited to meatloaf, pot roast, salmon cakes, and any breakfast food, we were guaranteed to have these whenever Mom was out of town. Good thing we liked them. These are very similar to crab cakes, but since salmon is about one sixth of the cost of crabmeat we have them a lot more often.

This is how I like tuna casserole, but feel free to make it how you like it. With peas, without peas, with cracker crumbs or crushed potato chips on top, it doesn’t matter, it’s still good. You can also save a few calories by making it with low-fat cream of mushroom soup and you won’t even notice the difference.

En papillote (PAH-peh-loht) is French for “in paper,” which is how this dish is made. This method of cooking steams the food and allows you to cook without fat, but we did add a little butter, thyme, and lemon for flavor. This is a really simple, foolproof way to cook fish and, best of all, it makes for easy cleanup.

Here I go again: I am not a big fan of fish. Okay, the truth is, I won’t eat most types of fish. However, I really do like it when it is made this way, and it’s even better with the tartar sauce on it. I mean how can you go wrong with potato chips? This is a super simple dish to make. Just make sure the potato chips get pretty finely crushed, or they will fall off when you take the fish out of the pan.

A tuna melt is one of the easiest things to make when you are eating alone. It really doesn’t take much more work than a tuna sandwich, but because you eat it with a knife and fork, it always seem more like a meal than just a sandwich.

This is one of my favorite after-school snacks. It tastes great and it makes a lot, so I can eat it for a few days in a row. Although it tastes better cold, I am usually too impatient (and hungry) to wait for it to chill, so I eat it warm the first day and then cold the rest of the time.

The notion of canned sardines in pastry may seem distasteful, but millions of Southeast Asians consider karipap sardin to be delightful soul food. Any fishy intensity is mitigated by a simple combination of supporting ingredients, including ketchup, lime, and fresh chile. Chopped hard-cooked egg adds richness to this quintessential curry puff filling. For small cans of sardines (5 1/2 ounces, which is about the size of a regular can of tomato paste), head to a Chinese, Southeast Asian, or Latino market. Many Asian cooks prefer Ligo brand. Canned sardines sold at supermarkets come in larger portions, so just use part of the can. This filling is also good on toast.

If your preference is for seafood, substitute this fish filling for the ones given for boiled Pork and Napa Cabbage Water Dumplings (page 31), the pan fried Meat and Chinese Chive Pot Stickers (page 33), or the Steamed Vegetable Dumplings (page 35). Regardless of cooking method, you’ll produce dumplings filled with the elements of classic Chinese steamed fish. For the best results, select the freshest fish possible—it should have a bit of sheen and be devoid of any off odors. Because this dough filling is light in color, I often encase it in jade green dough made with spinach for a pretty presentation (see page 23).

Miso is a fermented soybean paste, and is, well, the namesake ingredient behind miso soup. It is available in most natural foods stores and certainly in Asian supermarkets. Look for it in the refrigerated section near the tofu. Serve alongside steamed rice and vegetables for a spicy, sensible meal.

Working with a superhot pan is key to getting a nice crust on the outside of your fish without overcooking the inside. A quick sear on each side leaves the interior quite rare, so make sure you are working with only the freshest sushi-grade tuna.

This is one of my absolute favorite recipes to make, and you’ll quickly see why. It has even won over a few friends who usually steer clear of raw fish. It is also quite versatile. On its own, the tuna tartare is great piled high on crackers, flatbreads, or fried wontons, but it can also be used as a first-course salad topped with microgreens or radish sprouts. It also excels atop a plate of mixed greens, with the marinade drizzled over as a dressing.

Sometimes creating a recipe is a little like trying to solve a Rubik’s cube. You twist it this way and that and get real close to figuring it out, only to realize you’re not quite there yet. Such was the case here. Halibut is a great fish for health, but left to its own devices it can be rather bland. So I toyed, I tinkered, and went through more fish than Shamu until—hallelujah!—I got it right. If you aren’t in the mood for this southern Italian version, try the south-of-the border variation below.

Normally I like to pan-sear or broil salmon, but a lot of my clients have asked for a different way to approach fish. Poaching salmon is the answer. It’s a great way to enjoy a fillet without having to endure a lot of cooking smells. Most people associate poaching with eggs, and the concept is the same here. By briefly dunking the fillet in a simmering liquid, it quickly becomes moist and tender. Poaching isn’t boiling, and thank goodness, because that kind of long immersion is a sure way to give fish the consistency of a hockey puck. Here, the poaching liquid is Magic Mineral Broth, which infuses the salmon with even more nutrients—and more yum. Moroccan Pesto is a snazzy topping for this dish, but the possibilities are endless. See the variations below for a few more suggestions.

Shopping for fish can be intimidating. Maybe it’s the fact that half of them are staring at you from behind the counter, as if to say, “Jeez, how did I end up here? “ So, if you’re going to do them—and yourself——justice, here’s how to rustle up a fine, fresh fillet. You need to use your eyes and your nose. Look for a cut where the flesh is moist and glistening, with no flat, brown edges. If the fish looks dull, take a pass. Same goes for any fillet with a fishy or ammonia smell. Don’t be shy about asking your fishmonger a few questions, like when the fish came in and from where. Most stores have regular shipments; knowing that schedule in advance can help you plan when to have fish. If black cod were in a band, it would be the bass player: steady, meaty, but not much of a soloist. It benefits from some jazzy front men and especially likes to swing with citrus high notes. You’ll find plenty of those riffs in this dish.

All salmon are not created equal. This recipe features wild Alaskan sockeye. It’s the “wild” part that’s really important. Wild salmon are far higher in omega-3s than their farm-raised brethren, and omega-3s have been linked to a whole host of cancer-fighting benefits. The nice thing is, you don’t have to go fishing or even handle a salmon fillet to make this dish; there are great brands of wild sockeye that come in cans (see Resources). That said, of course you can also make this with an equal amount of leftover home-cooked salmon. Either way, this salad is easy to prepare: All it takes is a quick stir with a few choice ingredients, and there you go—a nice, filling dish that’s rich in protein, yummy, and versatile. Serve it in a pita, wrap it in a tortilla, or mound it atop salad greens.

My kids love the sweet and spicy flavors of this meal. The pork together with the potatoes, carrots, and green beans offers a kid-friendly, well-rounded dinner loaded with nutrients and low in fat. Look for boneless center-cut pork loin, 1/2 inch thick. Or substitute a turkey tenderloin, a salmon fillet, or even chicken for the pork.

My young children won’t eat the scallions in this recipe, so I leave them whole and remove them before serving. But I’m nonetheless pleased to know I’ve added another flavor to their taste memory that will increase the spectrum of their eating preferences and habits over a lifetime. The mildest types of fish-and thus more acceptable to non-fish or picky eaters-are the flat white fish: flounder, sole, even haddock or tilapia. This is one time when it is okay if the pieces of fish overlap or are even frozen together. It is rare for me to use butter in a recipe, but in this particular case I think it gives the fish a smoother mouth experience, which might be less offensive for difficult or timid eaters. You certainly can use olive oil, or just skip it altogether

Throughout the 1980s, my family vacationed in Cozumel, off the coast of the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico. This recipe was one of our favorite local dishes prepared by the descendants of the Mayan Indians. Corn, peppers, and limes are all native to the New World and were likely cultivated by the ancient Mayans much as they are today. Spice up this dish with red pepper flakes or chopped chiles. Try a white, flaky fish such as cod, flounder, or sole. Or try a slightly meatier white fish like Oreo Dory, tilapia, mahi mahi, or snapper. Either fresh or frozen fish fillets work fine. This recipe is also wonderful with seafood such as shrimp or with thin slices of flank steak or pork.