Fish

This pressed sandwich—a specialty of Nice, France—is filled with many of the components of the classic Niçoise salad (tuna, olives, and hard-cooked eggs). Weighting the sandwich allows the bread to soak up their flavors as it compresses.

IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST, halibut season begins in March and lasts until late summer, but halibut cheeks are a delicacy with which few people are familiar. Halibut cheeks have a distinctive texture, almost like a scallop, and they’re more forgiving than the fillets or steaks in terms of cooking time. While other cuts are easily overcooked, halibut cheeks still taste delicious with a few extra minutes of cooking time. Although halibut cheeks can be found in most fish shops and in the frozen food sections of many grocery stores nationwide, if you can’t find them, substitute halibut fillets cut into 3-ounce pieces. Halibut cheeks vary greatly in size; the smaller ones have more flavor. Serve three small cheeks per person. Adjust accordingly if you’re using larger cheeks.

THE DELICATE FLAVORS OF COD shine when the fish is cooked in a light and flavorful broth. Served chilled, it is perfect for a warm summer evening. When the cod is served with a grain or plain steamed rice, the vinaigrette becomes the sauce.

SMOKED, POACHED, GRILLED, OR SAUTÉED, salmon is what’s for dinner in the Northwest. Its rich flavor is even better when paired with a butter rub. If you prepare this dish in advance, bring the salmon to nearly room temperature before you cook it. Using a thicker piece of salmon will give you better cuts. Otherwise, if the butter rub is too cold, it will flake off the salmon. The sweet blueberry sauce provides an unexpected color and flavor contrast to the rub.

THIS IS A NORTHWEST TAKE ON THE CLASSIC SURF AND TURF, but instead of steak I like to include another fish. Halibut and salmon make a great combination because they have complementary flavors, cooking times, and thickness. (If you can get Alaskan halibut, even better.) Grilled on a cedar plank and served with fresh pesto, the fish have flavors that really pop. You can use any untreated cedar board to cook the fish. Cookware stores sell rather thick planks, but some big box hardware stores and large grocery stores sell thinner untreated cedar planks in the barbecue department.

WHILE THE NAME MAY SOUND FANCY, this is really a very simple dish, a sashimi salad brightened with freshly squeezed lime juice. Inspired by the Hawaiian fish dish, the addition of avocado acts as a color and texture counterpoint. The salmon should be frozen for at least 24 hours to kill any parasites that might be in the fish; it’s also much easier to cut the fish while it’s still partially frozen.

WITH A MEATY TEXTURE AND MILD FLAVOR, swordfish pairs flawlessly with bold ingredients. The caper-onion sauce, with bracing white wine and lemon, brings big flavor to the fish. If you can’t find swordfish, substitute another meaty fish, such as mahi-mahi.

CIOPPINO, THE CLASSIC ITALIAN-AMERICAN FISH STEW for which San Francisco is famous, takes on a new life in the Northwest, with fennel and a hint of anchovy to boost the flavor. The mashed avocado is used as a thickener and adds a richness to the dish, but it’s optional. We use a variety of seafood, but feel free to use whatever is fresh in your fish market. We like to use true cod, also known as Pacific cod, because of its flaky texture and mild flavor. (Pacific cod is preferable to Atlantic cod, an overfished species.) True cod is often available frozen. If you find it fresh ask your fishmonger to bone it for you.

POACHING SEAFOOD IN OIL locks in its moisture and produces tender, juicy results. Here, adding fresh red snapper along with the prawns adds a textural contrast, but you could use either one, doubling the quantity. The oil from the poached seafood makes a flavorful sauce when studded with basil, tomatoes, and lemon zest. Delicate capellini, also known as angel hair pasta, rounds out an easy summer lunch or light supper.

THIS IS A GREEN-FREE SALAD where vegetables take center stage. The olive dressing makes this dish stand out, with fennel adding an extra crunch. Use as little or as much tuna as you wish; we prefer it as a background note.

SECRET INGREDIENT Cracker crumbs help bind the fish mixture so it holds together when cooked; they also lend a crunchy coating to the cakes, which are dredged in the crumbs before baking. Put the crackers in a resealable plastic bag and crush with a rolling pin or small heavy skillet, or pulse in a food processor until coarsely ground.

FLAVOR BOOSTER Salmon fillets are dressed with a sweet-and-sour glaze that combines dark-brown sugar with pungent whole-grain mustard. Arrange the fish on a platter with watercress and lemon wedges for an impressive presentation fit for a dinner party.

GOOD TO KNOW Cod and other lean, firm-fleshed fish are good choices for steaming, since they stay moist after cooking. To steam in the oven, combine fillets in a baking dish with rice vinegar (or another flavorful liquid, such as lemon juice or wine), oil, and aromatics, then cover the dish tightly to trap in moisture as the fish cooks.

WHY IT’S LIGHT The salmon and green beans—along with capers and strips of lemon zest—are steamed in parchment (see page 18), with only one teaspoon olive oil per packet.

WHY IT’S LIGHT For a shore dinner you can make anywhere, wrap shrimp, cod, pototoes, and corn in “hobo packs” and cook them on the grill. The food steams inside, with only a half tablespoon butter per serving.

WHY IT’S LIGHT This dish only sounds indulgent. It stays trim by combining a modest piece of bacon-wrapped fish with a generous salad. Thick fillets of any firm, flaky, and mild fish, such as halibut, haddock, or striped bass, would work well here.

GOOD TO KNOW A favorite sandwich, redux: Instead of battering and deep-frying, fish fillets are cooked on the grill, with a mere brush of oil. Top with a tangy slaw and serve on toasted bread, and you won’t miss the original in the least.

GOOD TO KNOW A cherry pitter makes quick work of removing the pits, but you can also use frozen pitted cherries in place of fresh; just be sure to thaw them according to package instructions and drain thoroughly before using.