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Fish

Black Cod Fillets Poached in Five-Spice Broth with Baby Bok Choy and Udon

I could eat a meal like this almost every night. It's light and fresh, with vegetables and flaky fish poached in a perfumed broth. Five-spice powder is a Chinese spice blend combining equal parts cinnamon, star anise, clove, fennel, and Szechuan peppercorns, and can be found these days in most well-stocked grocery stores. A spa meal without the sacrifice, the chewy udon noodles and bok choy soak up that brothy flavor and round out this quick meal perfectly. Who said eating well was hard work?

Orange-Scented Bluefish

Bluefish is remarkably delicious and versatile. It is wonderful on the grill, its fatty richness complemented by the flavor of wood smoke. That richness ("oiliness" to the minds of some) causes many people to shun bluefish and other similar ocean brethren. All I can say is, oh well, more for me. Here orange zest provides an acidic tang that helps to balance the flavors, and the slow, low heat of the smoldering wood cooks the fish without drying it out.

Moroccan Salmon Crudo with Yogurt

One of the secrets to this raw salmon dish from Seattle restaurant Madison Park Conservatory is an amazing Moroccan spice blend called ras el hanout. It's like a curry powder in that there are a billion unique combinations, with each cook creating his or her own, though most include Moroccan favorites like cardamom, ginger, or mace. The blend is sold in fancy grocery stores or in Middle Eastern markets like the one near us in Pike Place Market that smells like heaven. You can also buy it online. If you can't find Greek yogurt, let plain yogurt drain a bit in a colander until thick before using.

Grits and Grunts

Grunts are a fish you'll probably never see on a menu and will most definitely never see at a fish market, especially on the West Coast. But as Charlie knows, they inhabit every dock, marina, pier, reef, and any other underwater structure in southern Florida. Because they are considered vastly inferior in taste to their snapper relatives, they're targeted for quick and easy meals by the fishermen in the Florida keys, where this breakfast dish originates. Considering grunt is largely unavailable (and truthfully, Charlie says, isn't very good), here we substitute small fillets of snapper or rockfish. This is an incredible dish—full or rich and spicy flavors, with a wild array of textures, from the pillow of creamy grits to searing fish to the crisp bacon. The classic accompaniment to grits and grunts is cheap beer, but coffee works, too.

Albacore Tuna Sliders

This quick, easy, and delicious recipe features a seared whole piece of tuna loin that's seared on a grill and then cut into slices and slid into brioche buns. Okay, so these are also technically sandwiches. If you're wondering why these slides are here instead of in the sandwich chapter, there are two reasons. The first is that Anders thought there needed to be a tuna option in Tuesday-Night Tuna. But the other reason is less pedantic: these are easy to make on a weeknight and make a fantastic dinner for four. Anders serves these with Pike Place Fish Smoked Walla Walla Onion Tartar Sauce, but you can serve it with any tartar-style sauce.

Grilled Fish

The Basic Recipe Fish steaks, cut 1 1/2 to 2 inches thick—halibut, swordfish, and tuna are all good choices—are really best for grilling. Fillets are usually too delicate, and large whole fish are tricky—too often the outside is charred before the inside is cooked. If you're lucky enough, however, to find small whole fish, such as sardines, imported red mullet, small mackerel, or bluefish, they will be exquisite cooked over charcoal or the embers of a wood fire for a real Mediterranean-style treat. Count on 1/4 pound boneless fish steaks per serving, a little more with the bone in, and add a little extra for enthusiastic appetites.

Hot Smoked Salmon with Apples, Dried Cherries, Hazelnuts and Greens

The Pacific Northwest is understandably known for its outstanding salmon, but Washington State and Oregon are also among the country's leading producers of apples, cherries, and hazelnuts—hence the pairing of this nutty apple and cherry salad with hot-smoked salmon. The full-flavored acidity of apple cider vinegar highlights the sweet-tart combination of Granny Smith and Gala apples as well as the dried cherries; the vinaigrette really helps cut the richness of the salmon.

Salmon, Red Quinoa, and Arugula Salad

Spicy harissa, a hot pepper sauce, plays off sweet raisins perfectly. —Murphy

Dried Cod Fish Pie

This recipe comes from MariaElena Sikolas-Toledo and her mother, Kathy Katevatis Sikolas, who has been cooking since she was 12 years old and, reports MariaElena, she "continues to titillate the taste buds of those lucky enough to sit at her kitchen table." According to MariaElena, dried cod fish pie is exclusive to the Greek Island of Cephalonia, where Kathy Sikolas was born and raised. Cephalonia is the largest of the islands in the Ionian Sea and "has a rich, varied cuisine." While the dish is not difficult to make, the recipes is a bit time-consuming, especially if you make your own phyllo dough, which MariaElena insists "is worth the extra elbow grease." If you don¿t want to make homemade phyllo dough, use one package (two sheets) of frozen puff pastry. When using puff pastry, don¿t oil the baking dish and rather than oiling the top of the pie, brush it with an egg wash, which is one egg, lightly beaten with a splash of water. The time commitment required for this recipe is also due to the fact that the dried cod needs to be rinsed, soaked, and poached before you can make the filling. Keep in mind that brands of salt cod can vary in their degree of saltiness so while 24 hours may be sufficient for some, the full 36-hour soak will be required for others. To test the cod, simply taste a small piece after one day—it should be pleasantly salty but not overwhelming.

Grilled Salmon with Orzo, Feta, and Red Wine Vinaigrette

Salmon is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which are known to lower cholesterol, and it is about as healthy as fish can get. But that is really a side benefit to this great-tasting main-course salad. It fits into the Motivating Mondays scenario, but I would happily serve it any day of the week and for any occasion. The warm orzo salad, with crunchy pine nuts, fresh basil, tender spinach, and tangy feta, is also good on its own. The salmon can also be cooked in a ridged grill pan.

Roasted Mackerel with Garlic and Paprika

I don't know why some people don't like mackerel and why it's not more widely served in the States. It's such a lovely fish, cheap and plentiful, and, served with this gently Spanish vinaigrette, an absolute winner. Make sure you dress the potatoes while they are still warm as they'll take on the dressing much better.

Arctic Char With Basil-Tarragon Mayonnaise

Use either arctic char or salmon for this super springy and fresh fish dinner.

Victory at Sea

Marinated white anchovies bear little resemblance to the pungent salted brown ones packed in oil. They're plump, vinegary, tender, and addictive when paired with the crisp frisée and chewy bread in this sandwich.

Zesty Halibut in Soy-Ginger Dressing

Benefits: Heart + Immunity + Brain & Vision + Anti-Aging Beauty Here you've got a tasty recipe that is low fat, heart-healthy, and good for your circulation. It comes from a Chinese colleague, whose family owned and operated Chinese seafood restaurants for years. This is what they had the chef prepare for them almost every evening when they sat down for dinner. Besides its wonderful taste, it's also a beautiful dish with the colorful peppers.

Miso-Yaki Sea Bass

The miso marinade lightly cures the fish, which results in a pleasantly firm texture and great flavor.

Smoked Salmon Smørrebrød

Smørrebrød only sound complicated. "You can put whatever you want on them," says chef Nicolaus Balla, who serves the Scandinavian open-face sandwiches at San Francisco's Bar Tartine. Simply slather a creamy spread like butter or sour cream on dense rye bread. Top with classic combos like roast beef and crisp onions, or smoked salmon and scallions—and since they're on view, make sure they look good. Finish with herbs, lemon zest—anything, really, except a second piece of bread.

Tarragon-Roasted Halibut with Hazelnut Brown Butter

If using skin-on hazelnuts, rub them inside a clean kitchen towel after they've been toasted—the skins will slip right off. Serve the fish with a lightly dressed butter lettuce and herb salad.

Baked Gefilte Fish

Parve Todd: To me, gefilte fish out of a jar is an abomination, but my version, basically an interpretation of the French quenelles be brochet, is cheftastic. Choosing between the two is a no-brainer, in my opinion (see Gefilte Fish: Jarred or Fresh? below). I prefer to use rockfish, otherwise known as sea bass, for gefilte fish because it is indigenous to the Chesapeake region. I blend it with pike and flounder, but you could use any combination of the three. Any white, non-oily fish will do for that matter. I've even made them with salmon; the light pink color makes a nice change of pace. It's best to poach the fish balls a day ahead of time so they can rest in their cooking liquid for several hours. They can be eaten cold, but Ellen and I like to serve them warm—they make a great, non-meat brunch entrée.

Pan-Roasted Salmon with Collards and Radish Raita

Serve the salmon with raita, which gets a peppery twist from the addition of grated daikon radish.

Cioppino

This stew uses bottled clam juice, a smart shortcut to a robust broth.
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