Cheese

That renewal of my acquaintance with marrow led to the invention of a canapé or sandwich filling that I believe to be without a peer as an accompaniment for cocktails. In the beginning I produced small batches, but they vanished with such unbelievable rapidity that I was forced to make them larger and larger. I pass on the recipe willingly, for the good of the human race, which has too long suffered from canapés that either adhere distressingly to the roof of the mouth or result in unsightly toothpicks scattered on the floor.

The plump ravioli called pansoti ("little bellies"), a Ligurian specialty, are often dressed with a walnut sauce. We strayed from tradition a bit and tucked the walnuts into the filling instead. Be sure to buy pancetta that's well marbled: If it's too lean, it won't render enough fat to flavor the filling. Also, brown the onions well — the caramelization lends a depth and richness that's essential to this dish.

In this simplified version of raclette, one of Switzerland's classic dishes, Swiss cheese replaces raclette cheese, and the cheese is melted in individual portions instead of being scraped from a large wheel as it melts. This dish makes a terrific appetizer, or it can be served with a green salad.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Offer this Italian cornmeal side dish in place of potatoes or rice. It's best served immediately out of the oven.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This is one of the real classics of [Friuli-Venezia Giulia] cuisine. You will find it wherever you travel, especially in springtime when wild herbs sprout in fragrant profusion all over la terra fortunata. The key here is to use as large a variety of herbs, grasses, and greens as you can locate. It is traditional that there be at least five different types. Among the most famous are silene, hops, melissa, mint, verbena, basil, marjoram, sage, parsley, spinach (just a little), fennel leaves, Swiss chard, zucchini (courgette) flowers, wild fennel, beet greens, chervil, sorrel, and celery leaves. This frittata is served piping hot, tepid, or cold. As always, it should be covered if allowed to cool, and cut into wedges before serving.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Delicious served with bread or crackers, these cheeses are also a wonderful addition to pizzas, pastas and salads.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Marinated peppers, mushrooms and eggplant make nice accompaniments to these Mediterranean-style pizzas. Finish up with almond cookies and mixed berries.

Parsley and thyme replace the usual basil in this sauce. Try it on cooked vegetables.

A true demi-glace — the luscious sauce made by reducing homemade stock and red wine to a rich concentration — needs to simmer for several hours, making it the perfect activity for a lazy winter Sunday.

(Onion, Anchovy, and Olive Tarts)

Here's a creamy, low-fat dish that rivals the homey goodness of mashed potatoes. Leftovers are great with scrambled eggs for brunch.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 45 min

Can be made in 45 minutes or less.